Chapter 25
Section 25 of a Guidebook of Art, Architecture, and Historic Interests in Pennsylvania, edited by Margaretta R. Schimbeau. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Read by Tatiana Cicilla, Allegheny County. Formed September 24, 1788, named from Delaware Indian word signifying fair water, surface undulating, many elevations being precipitous. It is the center of one of the richest bituminous coal and natural gas districts in the world.
Oil fields lie mainly in basins of Allegheny and Ohio rivers. Staple manufacturers are iron, steel, and glass. The history of Allegheny County presents a greater variety of startling incidents than almost any other portion of the state. Mound builders were primeval inhabitants. Site of ancient fortifications are on Chartier's Creek, eight miles from Pittsburgh, county seat.
Second city in size in the state. On site of Shinopen's town, chief of about 20 families of Delawares. He attended councils with the governor. His name is signed on several state archives. Byatt ran the main Indian path from east to west.
Washington first came to the forks in 1753 on the way to Fort LaBeouf. The French possessed it as Fort Duquesne, 1754 to 58, when it was conquered by General Forbes. General Stanwick erected a blockade and named it Fort Pitt for the British premier. In 1764, Colonel Bouquet built a redoubt on site of the fort. Old brick block house is still standing.
Penn Avenue near Second Street. First town of Pittsburgh built near the fort in 1760. Inhabitants enjoyed comparative quiet until 1763, when Pontiac's war broke out and they were completely surrounded by savages, later rescued by Colonel Bouquet. In 1811, first steamboat ever run on western waters was launched at Pittsburgh, the New Orleans. In 1839, first iron steamboat made in the United States, the Valley Forge, was built here.
The sister city, Allegheny, Northside, was incorporated with Pittsburgh in 1907, combined population 588,343. An art commission was organized in 1911 for an improvement in public works of art in Pittsburgh and to educate public sentiment for civic beautification. In 1915, E.H. Bennett, city planning architect of Chicago, was engaged to make a thorough economic and aesthetic analysis of the point at junction of the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers. Close to the business center is Schenley Park, 440 acres. Acquired by gift to the city in 1889, contains the Carnegie Institute, Carnegie Institute of Technology, Phipps Conservatory and Hall of Botany.
Given by Mr. Phipps in memory of his mother, with one of the most beautiful bronze statues in the world, mother and child, French sculptor. Hawkins Memorial, a bronze portrait figure backed by wall of polished granite, basin floor marble, sculptor Richard H. Cooper, erected 1904 in honor of Colonel Hawkins, 10th Pennsylvania Regiment in Spanish-American War. Panther Hollow, in which is an arch bridge, Beaver County sandstone with panthers, sculptor G. Moretti, and two other stone arch bridges built in 1892, architect A.L. Schultz. Near the Forbes Avenue entrance is the great building of the Carnegie Institute, established by Andrew Carnegie with large annual fund in perpetuity for purchase of objects of art and scientific collections. Built 1892-95, Italian Renaissance sandstone, architects Alden and Harlow, enlarged 1904-07, contains library, music hall, Department of Fine Arts, and the Natural History Museum, in which are large collections of ancient pottery, Chinese glass, and porcelains representing various eras.
Jade and crystals, valuable collections of coins and metals, illuminated manuscripts and early printed books, cut and uncut gems, one of the largest collections of carved ivory in the United States, and art metalwork. The library operates more than 170 agencies for free distribution of literature within greater Pittsburgh. On top of the building are four bronze groups representing science, art, literature, and music. Bronze statues, Michelangelo and Galileo, are at entrance to art gallery. Entrance to music hall is through exquisitely designed bronze doors wrought in relief, with bronze statues, Bach and Shakespeare at either side.
These bronzes were designed and modeled in the studio of J. Massey Rind and cast in Naples. Prior to the music hall is considered the most beautiful portion of the Institute. Here are 24 huge columns of Tinos marble, with gilded Corinthian capitals, and one of the finest organs in the world, on which the greatest organists obtainable give concerts of highly classical music, which are free every Saturday night and Sunday afternoon. The Great Archer, Queen Victoria's Jubilee organist, held this position for many years. The Hall of Sculpture, designed on lines of the Parthenon, is two stories high.
Around the first story is a Greek Doric colonnade. Above this is a row of ionic columns, all of the most flawless, milk-white, Pantelechon marble, dug out of the quarries from which the marble of the Parthenon itself was obtained. Collections of sculpture represent chronologically its history from early Egyptian to the Renaissance of the 16th century. Among the artists represented in the permanent collection of paintings are Dagnan Bouvere, Disciples at Emaus, Winslow Homer, REC, Whistler, Sarasate, E.A. Abbey, The Pendants of Eleanor, George Innis, The Clouded Sun, also Anton Mulv, Bastien LePage, Raffaele, Gary Melchers, Jules Simon, and Childe Hassam. Annual exhibitions of international modern art are held in May and June, and many others by different art societies during the year. In the entrance hall are mural decorations by the late John W. Alexander, a native of Pittsburgh, typifying the apotheosis of Pittsburgh.
They surround the staircase and galleries to the third floor. Art societies holding annual exhibitions at the Carnegie Institute are Associated Artists of Pittsburgh, organized 1910, Art Society of Pittsburgh, organized 1873, supported the Pittsburgh Orchestra for 15 years and gives excellent free exhibitions and lectures, Ducane Ceramic Club, organized 1891, Pittsburgh Architectural Club, Chapter Architectural League of America, organized 1897, Pittsburgh Etching Club, organized 1909, held exhibition of Whistler's Etchings in 1914. In the park west of this building is the Christopher McGee Memorial Fountain, made in 1907, granite, sculptor Augustus St. Godin. In front is industry statue, marble, after model in the Louvre, Paris.
The technical school, brick built 1905, architect Henry Hornbostel, includes, in the art course, day and evening classes in applied design, and Department of Architecture. The Pittsburgh Athletic Association, architects Jensen and Abbott, has interior decorations by Alfred Herter and collection of paintings. Drinking Fountain, Fifth Avenue, front of Montefiore Hall, placed in 1912, granite, with carved profile of an Indian. Inscription, Catahakasa Blackhoof, Warchief of the Shawnees, was President Braddock's defeat in 1754, a friend and ally of the United States. In Shenley Farms, directly opposite the entrance to Shenley Park, is the University of Pittsburgh, on a natural amphitheater.
The buildings stand out very effectively against the skyline. Founded in 1887, architect Henry Hornbostel, landscape architect Cass Gilbert, has departments of fine and industrial arts. Memorial Hall to Soldiers and Sailors of the Civil and Spanish Wars contains historic flags, statues, trophies, and historical portraits. Other parks are Allegheny, Northside, 90 acres, with monuments in honor of Washington, Equestrian, made 1891, sculptor Frederick Mayer, Baron von Humboldt, made 1869, Thomas A. Armstrong, and the Hampton Monument, made 1871, granite shaft, surmounted by bronze figure of a gunner, commemorates the bravery of Hampton's battery in the Civil War. Within east entrance of Allegheny Cemetery is the Arsenal Explosion Monument in honor of those who lost their lives September 17, 1862.
Monument to General Alexander Hayes, who was killed in the Battle of the Wilderness in 1864 by soldiers of his command. Gothic receiving vault. The Bindley Mausoleum, replica of Napoleon's tomb in Paris, pure example of the Renaissance, has a window by William and Annie Lee Willett. The Porter Angel and Cross, imported from Italy, fine example of marble carving. The Byers Mausoleum, imitation of Temple of Minervet, Athens, white granite. Nearby is the United States Arsenal in ornamental grounds.
Riverside Park on Perrysville Avenue, 217 acres, purchased by popular subscription in 1894, has beautiful drives and footpaths, contains the observatory connected with Allegheny University, in which the telescope was made by Mr. and Mrs. Tillinghast in their home workshop opposite. Highland Park, 300 acres, northeast limit of city, acquired 1872, has main water reservoirs and the zoological gardens. Main gateway is 56 feet high with Doric columns surmounted by bronze groups representing Wellcome, and bronze figures at base. Stanton Avenue entrance has two granite pedestals surmounted by equestrian statues, sculptor G. Moretti, made 1897.
In the park is Robert Byrne's statue, sculptor J. Massey Rind, and heroic bronze group, portrait statue, sculptor G. Moretti of Stephen C. Foster, 1826-64, standing, pen in hand, beside a Negro who is seated and playing a banjo. Foster wrote Old Uncle Ned and Old Folks at Home, was native of Pittsburgh, his grave is an Allegheny cemetery. The view from Highland Park is very beautiful. Highland and Shunley Parks are connected by Highland Avenue and the Boulevard, making a continuous drive which forms the Carnegie Promenade. The Soldiers Monument is on Monument Hill, erected in 1871 to 4,000 men of Allegheny County killed in the Civil War.
Wayside Fountain, 5th Avenue, near Woodland Road. Churches with notable architecture and windows. Rodev Shalom Synagogue, 5th Avenue and Moorwood Street, architect Henry Horn Bostel, is said to have the finest tile dome in this country. Windows, antique glass from original drawings, made by William and Annie Lee Willett. St. Paul's Roman Catholic Cathedral, 5th Avenue, corner of Craig Street, stone, 14th century Gothic, built 1907.
Architects Egan and Prindiville, has beautiful altar of carved Carrara marble, pews and pulpit made of bog oak from Ireland. Bronze stations by Siebel, said to be largest and most artistic in the world. The Great West window transepts, clarestries, ornamental and heraldic glass made by Willett, and the later delicate French Gothic spirit. Also there is here much modern German and English glass. First Baptist, Bellefield Avenue and Bayard Street, pure Gothic, 14th century stone, built 1902.
Architects Cram, Goodhue and Ferguson. Third Presbyterian, 5th Avenue and South Negley Street, one of the most beautiful Gothic churches in the United States for spontaneity of design. Warmth and golden tints of stone, architect Theophilus P. Chandler. Windows by Willett are The Ten Virgins, made 1904. The Holy City, 1905, of great beauty and color.
And fine ornamental windows and clear glass with heraldic ornaments, and medieval hand-wrought lead. Transcept windows by Tiffany, American opalescent glass. East Isle window by Kenyon Cox. West Isle by McCausland, Toronto. This is an excellent church in which to study the different schools of glass.
Calvary Protestant Episcopal, Shady Avenue and Walnut Street. Bedford Limestone, 13th century Gothic, copy of Netley Abbey. Architect Ralph Adams Cram. The windows by William and Annie Lee Willett are among the most notable contributions to stained glass art in this country. Recalling those of the Great Chartre Cathedral, with amount of painting reduced to a minimum and lead treated as respectfully as the glass.
Also a Tiffany window and some excellent English glass. Epiphany Roman Catholic, Washington and Franklin Streets, Romanesque with Byzantine details. Contains some beautiful artwork, including the Twelve Apostles by Tabor Sears. First Presbyterian, Sixth Avenue and Wood Street. Site deeded by John Penn in 1787.
Stone, French Gothic, erected in 1905. Architect T.P. Chandler, Philadelphia. Has fine echo organ and chimes. Windows by Tiffany, Lamb and Clayton and Bell, London. Medallion window and ornamental work by Willett.
In Lutheran Church, Sixth Avenue. Sanctuary window by Clayton and Bell. Purely flat decoration. Also window by Frederick Wilson. Mount Alvernia Chapel, Order of St. Francis, contains mural decorations by William Willett.
Nearby is the Carnegie Free Library, Federal and Ohio Streets, Romanesque. Nearby is the Carnegie Free Library, Federal and Ohio Streets, Romanesque. Fox Island granite with red granite trimmings. Built 1890. Architect H.H. Richardson.
Contains library, art gallery and music hall. In front is monument to Colonel James Anderson, red granite with bronze portrait bust. 1785 to 1861. Sculptor Daniel Chester French. Allegheny Post Office, French Renaissance.
Built 1898. Noted for gold bone. Nearby is colossal statue of labor. Allegheny County Courthouse, Fifth Avenue and Grant Street, Romanesque. Wooster granite and marble.
Tower 425 feet high. Built 1888. The masterpiece of the great architect H.H. Richardson. Its interiors are equally imposing. The proportions of the corridors and especially the fan lancet and convex shaped ceiling.
With its thousands of interlacing arches. 21 of which can be seen at one glance from the base of one of the stairways. Excites the admiration of all beholders. It is without any other decoration but the beauty of its lines and shadows. Jail is connected by fashionably of bridge of size.
Frick Building. Built in 1902. Fifth Avenue and Grant Street. Architects D.H. Burnham and Company. A granite office structure 20 stories high.
Of the Greek Doric order. Erected to express grace and beauty. Batters from stylobate to cornice. Three feet narrower at top than base. Basement and entrance halls lined with Carrara marble.
Panels of pavanazzo marble and ceiling. Offices decorated with frescoes of the old Italian school. Restaurant medieval German. The club story. Louis XIV style is in stucco.
Marble, bronze and frescoes. Two large bronze lions by famous Mr. Proctor are an entrance hall. Bank of Pittsburgh. Fourth Avenue near Wood Street. Classic Alden and Harlow.
Architects. Has mural decorations allegorical of the city. Has mural decorations allegorical of Pittsburgh. By Edwin H. Blashfield and the late Francis D. Millett. Iron City Bank.
Westinghouse Building. Mural decorations by William Willett. Farmer's Deposit Bank. Sculpted, freezed by J. Massey Rind. Chamber of Commerce contains portraits of many prominent citizens.
Friendship School. Friendship and Graham Streets. Historical paintings of Penn, Washington and Lincoln by William Willett. View of the city seen from Mount Washington. With rivers and encircling hills.
Is more or less enveloped in smoke. Excepting Sunday. 75% of the smoke nuisance in Pittsburgh has been abated. Braddock. Population 20,879.
On Monongahela River. 12 miles below Pittsburgh. Famous first as battleground. General Braddock's defeat by French and Indians. 1754.
When General Washington won his spurs. Now is home of the Carnegie Steel Company. St. Mary's Protestant Episcopal Church. Windows and mural decorations by William and Annie Lee Willett. Philadelphia.
St. MacGinny River. So named by early explorers from hearing Indians calling to each other across its width. Something that sounded like it. And meaning, come again. McKeesport.
Home of the National Tube Company. Producing more wrought-iron pipes than any other plant in the world. St. Peter's Church. Alter window by William and Annie Lee Willett. Down the Ohio River.
About six miles from Pittsburgh. Begins Seven Mile Island. A garden spot. One time home of the famous Queen Aliquippa. named by Indians on account of its maple trees, on Lincoln Highway, a beautiful resident section
with country estates which rival those about Philadelphia and New York. St. James's Church, window by William Willett. Wilkinsburg, population 24,403, within 15 minutes of Carnegie Institute, has Wilkinsburg Bank, Classic, Marble, built 1909, Architects, Moobly and Usinger, and Rowland Theater, built 1912, Corinthian, Architect, Hodgkinson. End of section 25.
