Chapter 9
CHAPTER IX. A walk into the country, the Pe'earoa, prevailed on by the kindness of the chiefs to defer our departure. Breadfruit plants collected, moved the ships to Toa Roa Harbor, three of the ships company desert, indiscretion of our people on shore, instances of jealousy. Morning. Bowl brought to O'Pare by a prophet. The deserters recovered. Tina proposes to visit England. 1788. December. Wednesday. 17. This morning I took a walk into the country, accompanied by Nelson and my old friend Moana.
The breadth of the border of Loa Land before we arrived at the foot of the hills was near three miles. This part of our journey was through a delightful country, well covered with breadfruit and coconut trees, and strewed with houses in which were swarms of children. We then proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with plantations of yams, taro, the cloth plant, and their favorite root, the ava. There were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were dwarfs in comparison of those on the Loa Land.
Our walk was very much interrupted by a river, the course of which was so superteen that we had to cross it several times, being carried over on men's shoulders. On arriving at Amor A'i, I saw a number of natives collected and was informed that the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteen men were sitting on their heels. In the front was a pole covered with a plaited coconut branch, and before each of the men there were a number of small pieces of the same leaf plaited, which they call ha'i ra'i, and each had likewise a piece round his wrist.
One who appeared to be the chief priest prayed aloud, and was answered by all the rest together. After a few short sentences and responses, they rose and each carried a ha'i ra'i, which they placed at the foot of the pole, and returned to prayer. This was repeated until all the ha'i ra'i were delivered, and then the ceremony ended. I must not forget to mention that they had placed near the pole an offering of plantains and breadfruit, which they left for the e'atua. They very kindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared for them whilst they were praying,
but as I wished to make the most of the morning before the sun was too high, I declined their offer, and Mo'ana bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we returned. We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when we were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height of above 200 feet. The fall at this time was not great, but in heavy rains must be considerable. The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in the island. The fall of water is the least curious part. The cliff over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if supported by square pillars of stone, and with a regularity that is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep into which the water falls, and in this place all the natives make a point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some religious idea.
The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult, I did not care to proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say how far this curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the road by which we went. It cannot be less than seven miles. It is called Pe'e'a Roa. In our return we found a young pig prepared for us, and we made a hearty meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson's for whom he had in 1777 planted two shoddock plants, formerly mentioned, which he had brought from the friendly isles. These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to fine trees and full of fruit. In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the ava and the cloth plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds. Many of the plantations of the cloth plant were fenced with stone and surrounded with a ditch. The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher grounds.
As soon as we had finished our dinner we returned towards the ship. I was much delighted in this walk with the number of children that I saw in every part of the country. They are very handsome and sprightly and full of antique tricks. They have many diversions that are common with the boys in England such as flying kites, cat's cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping on a rope, walking upon stilts, and wrestling. Friday, 19 The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and east-southeast. We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the bay. I had not yet determined whether on leaving Mata'avi Bay I would go to the island Ae-Meo or to the harbor of Toa Roa near O'Pare. This uncertainty made Tina and the rest of my friends very anxious, and they appeared much distressed on my desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things which they wished to have repaired by the forge without delay, that what they wanted might be done before the ship left Mata'avi, which I told them would be a good idea.
They very earnestly entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as impossible and asked Tina if he would not go with me to Ae-Meo, but he said that notwithstanding my protection, he was certain that the Ae-Meo people would watch for an opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night, but his wife went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing with her some axes and other things that were in need of repair. Saturday, 20 When I went on shore, I found Oto, Obare'a, Roa, Maona, and several others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were so soon to leave them. All the people of Mata'avi I saw were much concerned at my intention of going to Ae-Meo and took every opportunity to prejudice me against the people of that island, to which I paid very little attention, as their motive was obvious. Sunday, 21
The harbor of Toa Roa, appearing every way safe, I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible, and I immediately made my intentions public, which occasioned great rejoicing. Wednesday, 24 This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all on a healthy state, for whenever any plant had an unfavorable appearance, it was replaced by another. The number of those rejected was 302, of which not one in ten, but was found to be growing at the root. The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which they distinguish by a different name. Patea, 2
Eroroa, 3 Awana, 4 Mirei, 5 Oreae, 6 Poeiro, 7
Apeira, 8 Rodeea, 6 In the first, fourth, and eighth class, the leaf differs from the rest. The fourth is more sinuated. The eighth has a large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The difference of the fruit is principally in the first and eighth class. In the first, the fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form. In the eighth, it is round and not above half the size of the others. I inquired if plants could be produced from the seed, and was told they could not, but that they must be taken from the root. The plants are best collected after wet weather, at which time the earth balls round the roots, and they are not liable to suffer by being moved. The most common method of dividing time at Otehede is by moons, but they likewise make a division of the year into six parts, each of which is distinguished by the name of the kind of breadfruit then in season. In this division they keep a small interval called Tawa, in which they do not use the breadfruit. This is about the end of February, when the fruit is not in perfection, but there is no part of the year in which the trees are entirely bare.
Thursday, 25 At daylight we unmoored, and I sent the tents in the launch to Oparé, with directions that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in the entrance of Toa Roa Harbor to show the safest part of the channel. At half past ten we got the ship under sail and ran down under top sails. When we were near the launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We immediately let the anchor go, but to our great surprise we found the ship was aground forwards. She had run on so easy that we had not perceived it at the time. This accident occasioned us much trouble, as we were obliged to send anchors out astern to get the ship afloat. In doing this, one of the cables swept a rock and was not got clear again without much difficulty. When the ship was moored, Point Venus moored north 46 degrees east. The east part of the harbor, north 65 degrees east one quarter of a mile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's length, depth of water 8 ½ fathoms. Friday 26 The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the principal people, I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated on the safety of the ship. Tini showed me a house near the waterside abreast of the ship, which she desired I would make use of and which was large enough for all our purposes.
He and his brother O-Re-E-Paia then desired I would stay and receive a formal address and present which they called O-Te-E. To this I assented, and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with Moana, and in a short time I saw Tini returning with about twenty men who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest said a short prayer to the E-A-Tu-A to which the rest made reply. A man was then sent to me three several times, at each time bringing me a small pig and the stem of a plantain leaf. The first they told me was for the god of Brataene, the next for King George, and the last for myself. Moana then got up, and without being dictated to, made an oration for me, the purpose of which I understood to be that I received their offering with thanks, that we were good people and friends, and therefore he exhorted them to commit no thefts. He told them to bring their pigs, coconuts, and bread fruit, and they would receive good things in return, that we took nothing without their consent, and finally that every man was to quit the place, that is the house we occupied, at night, for if they made any visit in the dark they would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended. I found this a delightful situation, and in every respect convenient. The ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs and smooth water, and close to a fine beach without the least surf. A small river with very good water runs into the sea, about the middle of the harbor.
I gave directions for the plants to be landed, and the same party to be with them as at Mataavi. Tina fixed his dwelling close to our station. Monday, 29. Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and stole his cleaver. I complained to this to the chiefs who were on board, and they promised that they would endeavor to collect it, but in an article so valuable as this was to the natives I had no great expectation of seeing restored. The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. Coconuts were in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the ship in the 24 hours. Breadfruit began to be scarce, though we purchased, without difficulty, a sufficient quantity for our consumption. There was, however, another harvest approaching which they expected would be fit for use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also were become scarce, but a kind which they call behe'e were in great plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other kinds, but grows upon an upright stock of considerable strength and substance.
Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of the others, it affords great subsistence to the natives. We received almost everyday presents of fish, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few small rockfish. Their fishing is mostly in the night when they make strong lights on the reefs which attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather the canoes are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears illuminated. In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs they struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes go without the reefs, sometimes to considerable distance where they fish with rods and lines and catch bonitas and other fish. Whenever there is a show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to sea. Their hooks, being bright, are used without bait in the manner of our artificial flies. Their rods are made of bamboo, but when there are any large fish they make use of an outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about 25 feet in length, which has two prongs at the extremity, to each of which is fastened a hook and line. And when a fish takes the hook it is raised by ropes, managed by two men in the stern of the canoe. January 1789
Thursday 1 Contrary to my expectation, Tina this afternoon brought on board the cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to Atahouoro'o and Tina told me, which I could easily believe, that it was given up with reluctance. Friday 2 The next morning I offered Tina a present of axes and other things, but as he suspected this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver restored, he would not be prevailed with to accept a single article. I had constantly the company of Tina, his wife, and some of his relations, but the royal children, though so near as, never came inside of the ship. The river separated them from the place occupied by our people on shore, and, for fear of giving alarm or offense, I gave strict orders that no one should attempt to go near their place of residence.
Monday 5 At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning, the small cutter was missing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's company when it appeared that three men were absent. Charles Churchill, the ship's corporal, and two of the seamen, William Muspratt and John Millward, the latter of whom had been sentinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken with them eight stands of arms and ammunition, but what their plan was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed to have the least knowledge. I went on shore to the chiefs and soon received information that the boat was at Mata'avi and that the deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the island Te Ruroa. On this intelligence I sent the master to Mata'avi to search for the small cutter, and one of the chiefs went with him, but before they had got halfway they met the boat with five of the natives who were bringing her back to the ship. This service rendered me by the people of Mata'avi pleased me much, and I rewarded the men accordingly. I told Tina and the other chiefs that I expected they would get the deserters brought back, for I was determined not to leave Otehidi without them. They assured me they would do everything in their power to have them taken, and it was agreed that O'Re'e Paya and Mo'ana would depart the next morning for Te Ruroa.
O'Re'e Paya inquired if they had pocket pistols. I quieted these apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols with them. Tuesday 6 A daylight O'Re'e Paya and Mo'ana set off in two canoes for Te Ruroa, but the weather became so boisterous that they were obliged to return in the forenoon, and I was happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very high without the harbor. From the first of this month the weather and winds had been much unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former station at Mata'avi appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking high over the dolphin bank and making a great swell on the bay. O'Re'e Paya and Mo'ana both promised me that they would sail again as soon as the weather should be fine.
Friday 9 The wind continued to blow strong at sea, though in the harbor we had at times but light breezes. Po'e'e No from Mata'avi came to see me today. He said he was apprehensive that I was displeased with him on account of our deserters having been carried to Te Ruroa by a canoe from Mata'avi. This he declared to have been done before he heard of it, and that the only service in his power he had not neglected to do for me, which was sending our boat back. As this was really an act of friendship I received him with great cordiality, and he assured me there could be no doubt from the directions Tina had given of the deserters being brought to the ship as soon as the weather would admit canoes to go after them. Saturday 10 One of the officers this morning inadvertently plucked a branch from a tree called Toto'aeae that bears the oil nut which was growing at a Mo'raae. On entering with it into the house occupied by our people all the natives, both men and women, immediately went away. When I went on shore I found this branch tied to one of the posts of the house, although the effect it had on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this piece of wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away, but the natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said the house was taboo, which I understood to signify interdicted, and that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which could only be done by Tina. To take anything away from a Mo'raae is regarded as a kind of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offense to the E'atua.
At my request Tina took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This was performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the Mo'raae and a prayer made to the E'atua. After this ceremony the house was resorted to by the natives as usual. I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bowl from Itea, although I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to the messages which Tina had sent at my desire. I therefore spoke to Po'e'e'no, who undertook to negotiate this business, and I commissioned him to make very liberal offers. He left me after dinner to return to Mata'avi. In the evening the messenger arrived from him to acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep which I had trusted to his care had been killed by a dog, and that he had sent the culprit, hoping I would kill him for the offense he had committed. This poor sheep had been so much diseased that I cannot help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance, and that the story of the dog was invented to prevent my attributing it to one of care. This doubt did not appear in my answer. As for the dog I told the messenger to do with him what he pleased. Tuesday, 13. This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been for some days past, O'Re'epaia sailed with two canoes for Te'ethu Roa.
Wednesday, 14. Some business prevented Mo'ana from accompanying him, but he followed the next day with two other canoes. The wood that we had got at Mata'avi being expended I applied to Tina, who sent three trees down to the waterside before night, which, when caught up, made a good launch-load. I saw two instances of jealousy today, one of which nearly produced fatal consequences. A man was detected with a married woman by the husband, who stabbed him in the belly with a knife. Fortunately the intestines escaped, and the wound did not prove dangerous. The other instance was a girl who had constantly lived with my coxton, beating another girl that she discovered to have been too intimate with him. Friday, 16. In walking today with Tina near a tu pa pao, I was surprised by a sudden outcry of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the distressed person, Tina took me to the place where we found a number of women, one of whom was the mother of a young female child that lay dead. On seeing us, their mourning not only immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all burst into an immoderate fit of laughter, and while we remained appeared much diverted with our visit.
I told Tina the woman had no sorrow for her child, otherwise her grief would not have so easily subsided, on which she joculously told her to cry again. They did not, however, resume their mourning in our presence. This strange behavior would incline us to think them hard-hearted and unfeeling, did we not know that they are fond parents, and in general very affectionate. It is therefore to be ascribed to their extreme levity of disposition, and it is probable that death does not appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a more serious caste. Sunday, 18 I received a message from Poe Aenaw to acquaint me that he had been successful in his negotiations for the bowl, which he had driven part of the way by land, but could not get farther on account of the rivers, and therefore desired a boat should be sent for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready, and at two o'clock next morning Mr. Fryer, the master, set off in her. Monday, 19 In the afternoon the launch returned with the bowl and my friend Poe Aenaw. For the night I directed that the bowl should remain at Oparay, and the next day he was taken to the cow at Mata'avi. Wednesday, 21 Today Poe Aenaw brought to me the person from whom he had the bowl to receive the stipulated payment, which was one of every article of traffic that I had in my possession. This man, whose name was Owewe'e, they told me was inspired by a divine spirit, and that in all manners of consequence he was consulted, for he had conversed with the E'atua.
It was, they said, the E'atua that ordered him to demand the bowl from Tina, which not to have complied with would have been the height of impiety. I had endeavored to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling that which the E'atua had ordered him to keep, but here I was easily defeated, for it seems the E'atua told him to sell me the beast. This being the case, I said I would not give the animals to any person that they were now mine, and that I would leave them under the protection of Poe Aenaw and Tina, who I hoped would take care of them for me till I returned. They both entered into my views, and promised the animals should be attended to, and told me that, while they were considered as my property, no one would attempt to take them away. Thursday, 22. This afternoon I received a message from Te Paho'o to inform me that our deserters had passed this harbor and were at Te Taha, about five miles distant. I ordered the cutter to be got ready, and the little before sunset left the ship, taking O-A-D-D-A with me. By his advice I landed at some distance from the place where the deserters were, but thinking it necessary to have the boat within call, and O-A-D-A assuring me that there was safe landing further on, I directed the boat to proceed along shore whilst O-A-D-A-A and I walked along the beach. The night was very dark and windy, and the shore being rocky, I soon lost sight of the boat. A few of the natives had joined us in our walk, and from their manner I had reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us with an intention no doubt to plunder. I was provided with pocket pistols, and on producing one they left us. O-A-D-A was so much alarmed that I could scarce prevail on him to proceed.
When we arrived at Te Pahou's house, we were very kindly received by him and his wife. The cutter was arrived, but there being a very high surf, she could not come within a hundred yards to the shore. The deserters, I was informed, were in a house close to us, and I imagined there would be no great difficulty in securing them with the assistance of the natives. They had, however, heard of my arrival, and when I was near the house they came out without their arms and delivered themselves up. I sent directions off to the boat for one of my people to come on shore, and for the boat to return to the place where I had landed. My next business was to secure the arms, which I delivered to Te Pahou to take charge of for the night. One musket and two bayonets were missing, which they said were lost by the canoe in which they had come from Te Thru Roa, having over set. I then took leave of Te Pahou, who presented us with a plentiful supply of provisions, and we proceeded with the deserters toward the boat. But as the wind had increased and it rained hard, I determined to remain on shore till the morning. And having found shelter for the people, we passed the remainder of the night without accident. At daylight I sent for the arms, and we returned to the ship. Friday 23. I learnt from the deserters that at Te Thru Roa they had seen O Re'epaia and Mo'ana, who had made an attempt to secure them. They said it was their intention to have returned to the ship, and it was probable that they were so much harassed by the natives watching for an opportunity to surprise them that they might wish to have the merit of returning of their own accord to avoid the disgrace of being seized and brought back.
At the time they delivered themselves up to me, it was not in their power to have made resistance, their ammunition having been spoiled by the wet. In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship by the tempestuous weather, the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5 minutes 33 seconds. Its rate previous to this was 1 second 7, losing the 24 hours, and its error from the mean time at Greenwich was 7 minutes 29 seconds 2, too slow. I set it going again by a common watch, corrected by observations, and endeavored to make the error the same as if it had not stopped, but being overcautious made me tedious in setting it in motion and increased the error from mean time at Greenwich. The rate of going I did not find to have altered. At dinner, Tina congratulated me on having recovered my men, but expressed some concern that they had not been brought by O'Rehe Paya and Moana, lest I should imagine they had not done everything in their power. To this I replied that I was perfectly satisfied of their good intentions to serve me, and that I considered myself under great obligations to them for the troubles they had been at on my account. I learned afterwards that they had actually seized and bounded the deserters, but had been prevailed upon by fair promises of their returning peaceably to the ship to let them loose. The deserters, however, finding an opportunity to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at defiance.
Friday, 30. This afternoon I punished one of the seamen's, Isaac Martin, with nineteen lashes for striking an Indian. This was a transgression of so serious a nature, and such a direct violation of my orders, that I would on no account be prevailed on to forgive it, though great intercession was made by some of the chiefs. O'Rehe Paya and Moana were not yet returned from Tehthu Roa. This place is resorted to by the principal people of this part of Otehede at particular seasons when fish are in great plenty there. It was described to me to be a group of small keys surrounded by a reef, their produce is chiefly coconuts and plantains. During the season breadfruit and other provisions are daily carried over from Otehede. Not less than a hundred sail of canoes were at Tehthu Roa when our deserters were there. Te Pahou and his wife were become my constant visitors. He had for some time passed been ill, and had made O'Pare his place of residence for the benefit of our surgeon's advice and assistance. At this time he complained of a hoarseness and sore throat. Mr. Ledward, on examining him, discovered there had been two holes in the roof of his mouth, which, though healed, had the appearance of having been large. The adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the surgeon was of opinion that they were cancerous, and would in the end occasion his death. Saturday, 31. This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore, and the inside of the ship to be washed with boiling water to kill the cockroaches. We were constantly obliged to be at great pains to keep the ship clear of vermin on account of the plants. By the help of traps and good cats we were freed from rats and mice.
When I was at Otehidi with Captain Cook, there were great numbers of rats about all the houses, and so tame that they flocked round the people at their meals for the oafles which were commonly thrown to them. But at this time we scarce ever saw a rat, which must be attributed to the industry of a breed of cats left there by European ships. After breakfast I walked with Tina to Mata'avi to see the cattle in the gardens. Tina had already taken so large a dose of the ava that he was perfectly stupefied. A day up, however, was with us, and she is one of the most intelligent persons I met with at Otehidi. We went first to Po'e'eno's house and saw the bull and cow together in a very fine pasture. I was informed that the cow had taken the bull, so that if no untoward accident happens there is a fair chance of the breed being established. In the garden near Po'e'eno's house many things had failed. The Indian corn was in a fine state, and I have no doubt but that they will cultivate it all over the country. A fig tree was in a very thriving way, as were two vines, a pineapple plant, and some slips of a shatic tree. From this place we walked to the garden at Point Venus, but I had the mortification to find that almost everything there was destroyed by the hogs. Some underground peas and Indian corn had escaped, and likewise the Kawa, Lou, Green, and Okra of Jamaica.
We returned to the ship, and after dinner I was not a little surprised to hear Dina seriously propose that he and his wife should go with me to England. He said he would only take two servants, that he much wished to see King George, who he was sure would be glad to see him. Dina and many of his countrymen were become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and were continually inquiring about the situation to the islands which we told them of in these seas. To quiet his importunity, I was obliged to promise that I would ask the King's permission to carry them to England if I came again, that then I should be in a larger ship and could have accommodations properly fitted up. I was sorry to find that Dina was apprehensive that he should be attacked by his enemies as soon as our ship left O Tahiti, and that if they joined they would be too powerful for him. The illness of Te Pahou'o, with whom he was on good terms, gave him much uneasiness, Te Pahou'o's wife being a sister of Oto's and Aunt Dina. They have no children, as has been before related, and if Te Pahou'o were to die he would be succeeded as a are'e of the district of Tahaha by his brother who is an enemy to Dina. I have on every occasion endeavored to make the principal people believe that we should return again to O Tahiti, and that we should revenge any injury done in our absence to the people of Mata'avi and O'pare'e.
The wife of Oede'e is likewise an aunt to Dina and sister to Oto. His native place is Oulieete'e'a, where he has some property, but which I imagine is not of such consequence to him as the countenance of the chiefs with whom he has connected O Tahiti.
