Chapter 36
CHAPTER XV. Arrival at Uli-Teya. With an account of the reception we met with there, and the several incidents which happened A report of two ships being at Wahene, preparations to leave the island, and the regret the inhabitants showed on the occasion. The character of Oedide.
With some general observations on the islands. 1774 May. As soon as we were clear of the harbor we made sail and stood over for the south end of Uli-Teya. Ori took the opportunity to send a man with a message to O'Pooney. Being little wind all the latter part of the day, it was dark before we reached the west side of the isle where we spent the night. The same light variable wind continued till ten o'clock next morning when the trade wind at east prevailed and we ventured to ply up to the harbor.
First sending a boat to lay in anchorage in the entrance. After making a few trips we got before the channel, and with all our sails set, and the headway the ship had acquired, shut her in as far as she would go, then dropped the anchor and took in the sails. This is the method of getting into most of the harbors which are on the lee side of these isles. For the channels in general are too narrow to ply in.
We were now anchored between the two points of the reef which form the entrance. Each knot more than two thirds the length of a cable from us, and on which the sea broke with such height and violence as to people less acquainted with the place would have been terrible. Having all our boats out with anchors and warps in them, which were presently run out, the ship warped into safety where we dropped anchor for the night. While this work was going forward my old friend Ori the Chief and several more came to see us. The Chief came not empty.
Next day we warped the ship into a proper berth and moored her so as to command all the shores around us. In the meantime a party of us went ashore to pay the Chief a visit and to make the customary present. At our first entering his house we were met by four or five old women weeping and lamenting as it were most bitterly, and at the same time cutting their heads with instruments made of shark's teeth till the blood ran plentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags and by that means were all besmeared with blood.
This ceremony, for it was merely such being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made some little stay and given my present to the Chief and his friends, he put a hog and some fruit into my boat and came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon we had a vast number of people in canoes about us from different parts of the island. They all took up their quarters in our neighbourhood where they remained feasting for some days. We understood that most of them were eerie oyers.
The 26th afforded nothing remarkable excepting that Mr. Forster, in his botanical excursions, saw a burying place for dogs, which they called Marae no teori, but I think we ought not to look upon this as one of their customs because few dogs die an actual death being generally, if not always, killed and eaten or else given as an offering to the gods. Probably this might be a marae or altar where this sort of offering was made, or it might have been the whim of some person to have buried his favourite dog in this manner. But be it as it will, I cannot think it is a general custom in the nation, and for my own part I neither saw nor heard of any such thing before. Early in the morning of the 27th, Ory, his wife, son, daughter, and several more of his friends made us a visit, and brought with them a good quantity of all manner of refreshments, little having as yet been got from anybody else.
They stayed dinner, after which a party of us accompanied them on shore, where we were entertained with a play called Midijij Harami, which signifies the child is coming. It concluded with the representation of a woman in labour, acted by a set of great brawny fellows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy about six feet high, which ran about the stage, dragging after him a large wisp of straw which hung by a string from his middle. I had an opportunity of seeing this acted another time, when I observed that the moment they had got hold of the fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. From this I judged that they do so by their children when born, which may be the reason why all in general have flat noses. This part of the play, from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gave us, the first time we saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud laugh, which may be the reason why they acted it so often afterwards.
But this, like all their other pieces, could entertain us no more than once, especially as we could gather little from them, for want of knowing more of their language. The 28th was spent by me in much the same manner as the preceding day, vis in entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them. Mr. Forster and his party in the country botanizing. Next morning we found several articles had been stolen out of our boats lying at the buoy, about 60 or 70 yards from the ship. As soon as I was informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith.
I found that he not only knew they were stolen, but by whom and where they were, and he went immediately with me in my boat in pursuit of them. After proceeding a good way along shore, towards the south end of the island, the chief ordered us to land near some houses, where we did not wait long before all the articles were brought to us, except the Pinnaces iron tiller, which I was told was still further off. But when I wanted to go after it, I found the chief unwilling to proceed, and he actually gave me the slip, and retired into the country. Without him I knew I could do nothing.
The people began to be alarmed when they saw I was forgoing farther, by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach also. I therefore sent one of them to the chief to desire him to return. He returned accordingly when we sat down and had some vitals set before us, thinking perhaps that, as I had not breakfasted, I must be hungry and not in a good humour. Thus I was amused till two hogs were produced, which they entreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears vanished, and I thought myself not ill off, in having gotten two good hogs for a thing which seemed to be quite out of my reach.
Matters being thus settled, we returned on board, and had the company of the chief and his son to dinner. After that we all went ashore, where a play was acted for the entertainment of such as would spend their time in looking at it. Beside these plays, which the chief caused frequently to be acted, there were a set of strolling players in the neighbourhood who performed every day. But their pieces seemed to be so much alike that we soon grew tired of them, especially as we could not collect any interesting circumstances from them. We, our ship and our country, were frequently brought on the stage, but on what account I know not.
It can hardly be doubted that this was designed as a compliment to us, and probably not acted but when some of us were present. I generally appeared at Ory's theatre towards the close of the play, and twice at the other, in order to give my might to the actors. The only actress at Ory's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl at whose shrine on these occasions many offerings were made by her numerous votaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's giving us these entertainments so often. Early in the morning on the 30th I set out with the two boats, accompanied by the two Mr. Forsters.
Oedide, the chief, his wife, son and daughter, for an estate which Oedide called his, situated at the north end of the island. There I was promised to have hogs and fruit in abundance, but when we came there we found that poor Oedide could not command one single thing, whatever right he might have to the wen oon a, which was now in possession of his brother, who soon after we landed presented to me with the usual ceremony two pigs. I made him a very handsome present in return, and Oedide gave him everything he had left of what he had collected during the time he was with us. After this ceremony was over I ordered one of the pigs to be killed and dressed for dinner, and attended myself to the whole operation, which was as follows.
They first strangled the hog, which was done by three men, the hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick across his throat, and pressed with all their might on each end. The third man held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fundament with grass. I supposed to prevent any air from passing or re-passing that way. In this manner they held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. In the meantime some hands were employed in making a fire to heat the oven which was close by. As soon as the hog was quite dead they laid him on the fire and burnt or singed the hair, so that it came off with almost the same ease as if it had been scalded. As the hair was got off one part, another was applied to the fire till they had got off the hole, yet not so clean but that another operation was necessary,
which was to carry it to the seaside and there give it a good scrubbing with sandy stones and sand. This brought off all the scurf, etc., which the fire had left on. After well washing off the sand and dirt, the carcass was brought again to the former place and laid on clean green leaves in order to be opened. They first ripped up the skin of the belly and took out the fat or lard from between the skin and the flesh, which they laid on a large green leaf. The belly was then ripped open and the entrails taken out and carried away in a basket, so that I know not what became of them, but I am certain they were not thrown away. The blood was next taken out and put into a large leaf, and then the lard, which was put to the other fat.
The hog was now washed clean both inside and out with fresh water, and several hot stones put into his belly, which were shaken in under the breast, and green leaves crammed in upon them. By this time the oven was sufficiently heated. What fire remained was taken away, together with some of the hot stones. The rest made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven and were covered with leaves on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard and fat, after being washed with water, were put into a vessel made just then of the green bark of the plantain tree, together with two or three hot stones, and placed on one side of the hog. A hot stone was put to the blood, which was tied up in the leaf and put into the oven, as also breadfruit and plantains.
Then the hole was covered with green leaves on which were laid the remainder of the hot stones. Over them were leaves. Then any sort of rubbish they could lay their hands on, finishing the operation by well covering the hole with earth. While the vials were breaking, a table was spread with green leaves on the floor at one end of a large borehouse. At the close of two hours and ten minutes the oven was opened and all the vittles taken out. Those of the natives who dined with us sat down by themselves at one end of the table and we at the other.
The hog was placed before us and the fat and blood before them, on which they chiefly dined and said it was mammoty, very good vittles, and we not only said but thought the same of the pork. The hog weighed about fifty pounds, some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone, but the more fleshy parts were excellent. And the skin, which by the way of our dressing can hardly be eaten, had by this method a taste and flavour superior to anything I ever met with of the kind. I have now only to add that during the whole of the various operations they exhibited a cleanliness well worthy of imitation. I had been more particular in this account because I do not remember that any of us had seen the whole process before, nor is it well described in the narrative of my former voyage.
While dinner was preparing I took a view of this Wenua of Oedidi. It was a small but a pleasant spot and the houses were so disposed as to form a very pretty village, which is very rarely the case at these isles. Soon after we had dined we set out for the ship with the other pig and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the sum total of our great expectations. In our return to the ship we put ashore at a place where, in the corner of a house, we saw four wooden images, each two feet long, standing on a shelf, having a piece of cloth round their middle and a kind of turban on their heads, in which were stuck long feathers of cocks. A person in the house told us they were iatua notei taotu, gods of the servants or slaves.
I doubt if this be sufficient to conclude that they pay them divine worship and that the servants or slaves are not allowed the same gods as men of more elevated rank. I never heard that Tupia made any such distinction or that they worshipped any visible thing whatever. Besides, these were the first wooden gods we had seen in any of the isles, and all the authority we had for their being such was the bare word of perhaps a superstitious person and whom too we were liable to misunderstand. It must be allowed that the people of this isle are in general more superstitious than at Ota Hiti. At the first visit I made to the chief after our arrival. He desired I would not suffer any of my people to shoot herons and woodpeckers.
Birds are sacred with them, as robin red breasts, swallows, etc. are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a priest and well acquainted with their religion, customs, traditions, etc., played little or no regard to these birds. I mention this because some amongst us were of opinion that these birds are their iaturas or gods. We indeed fell into this opinion when I was here in 1769 and into some others still more absurd, which we had undoubtedly adopted if Tupia had not undeceived us. A man of his knowledge and understanding we have not since met with, and consequently have had nothing to his account of their religion, but superstitious notions.
On the 31st the people knowing that we should sail soon began to bring more fruit on board than usual. Among those who came was a young man who measured six feet four inches and six tenths, and his sister, younger than him, measured five feet ten inches and a half. 1774 June. A brisk trade for hogs and fruit continued on the 1st of June. On the 2nd in the afternoon we got intelligence that three days before two ships had arrived at Wahene. The same report said that one was commanded by Mr. Banks and the other by Captain Fernot.
The man who brought the account said he was made drunk on board one of them and described the persons of Mr. Banks and Captain Fernot so well that I had not the least doubt of the truth, and began to consider about sending a boat over that very evening with orders to Captain Fernot when a man, a friend of Mr. Forster, happened to come on board and denied the whole, saying that it was wah-wah-ray a lie. The man from whom we had the intelligence was now gone so that we could not confront them, and there were none else present who knew anything about it but by report. So that I lay aside sending over a boat till I should be better informed. This evening we entertained the people with fireworks on one of the little aisles near the entrance of the harbor.
I had fixed on the next day for sailing, but the intelligence from Wahene put a stop to it. The chief had promised to bring the man on board who Forster brought the account, but he was either not to be found or would not appear. In the morning the people were divided in their opinions, but in the afternoon all said it was a false report. I had sent Mr. Clark in the morning to the farthest part of the island to make inquiries there. He returned without learning anything satisfactory.
In short, the report appeared now too ill-founded to authorize me to send a boat over or to wait any longer here, and therefore early in the morning of the fourth I got everything in readiness to sail. Ari the chief and his whole family came on board to take their last farewell accompanied by Uuru the Eri dihi and Boba the Eri of Otaha and several of their friends. None of them came empty, but Uuru brought a pretty large present, this being his first and only visit. I distributed amongst them almost everything I had left.
The very hospitable manner in which I had ever been received by these people had endeared them to me and given them a just title to everything in my power to grant. I questioned them again about the ships at Wahene, and they all to a man denied that any were there. During the time these people remained on board they were continually importuning me to return. The chief, his wife and daughter, but especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. I will not pretend to say whether it was real or feigned grief they showed on this occasion.
Perhaps there was a mixture of both, but were I to abide by my own opinion only I should believe it was real. At last when we were about to weigh they took a most affectionate leave. Ari's last request was for me to return when he saw he could not obtain that promise. He asked the name of my marai, burying ground. As strange a question as this was I hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney, the parish in which I live when in London.
I was made to repeat it several times over till they could pronounce it. Then Stepney Marai No Tutti was echoed through a hundred miles at once. I afterwards found the same question had been put to Mr. Forster by a man on shore. But he gave a different and indeed more proper answer by saying no man who used the sea could say where he should be buried. It is the custom at these aisles for all the great families to have burial places of their own where their remains are interred.
These go with the estate to the next year. The marai at Operee in Otehite where Tutuha swayed the scepter was called Marai No Tutaha. But now it is called Marai No Otu. What greater proof could we have of these people esteeming us as friends than their wishing to remember us even beyond the period of our lives. They had been repeatedly told that we should see them no more.
They then wanted to know where we were to mingle with our parent dust. As I could not promise or even suppose that more English ships would be sent to these aisles. Our faithful companion Oedede chose to remain in his native country. But he left us with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he bore to us. Nor could anything but the fear of never returning have torn him from us.
When the chief teased me so much about returning I sometimes gave such answers as left them hopes. Oedede would instantly catch at this, take me on one side and ask me over again. In short, I have not words to describe the anguish which appeared in this young man's breast when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into tears and then sunk down into the canoe. The maxim that a prophet has no honor in his own country was never more fully verified than in this youth.
At Otehete he might have had anything that was in their power to bestow. Whereas here he was not in the least noticed. He was a youth of good parts and like most of his countrymen of a docile, gentle and humane disposition. But in a manner wholly ignorant of their religion, government, manners, customs and traditions. Consequently no material knowledge could have been gathered from him had I brought him away.
Indeed he would have been a better specimen of the nation in every respect than Omai. Just as Oedede was going out of the ship he asked me to tattoo some paru for him. In order to show the commanders of any other ships which might stop here, I complied with his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us and recommended him to the notice of those who might afterwards touch at the island. We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock when we wade and put to sea.
But Oedede did not leave us till we were almost out of the harbor. He stayed in order to fire some guns for it being his majesty's birthday we fired the salute at going away. When I first came to these islands I had some thought of visiting Topia's famous bola bola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful supply of all manner of refreshments and the route I had in view allowing me no time to spare, I laid this design aside and directed my course to the west taking our final leave of these happy isles
on which benevolent nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives copying the bounty of nature are equally liberal contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators. During the six weeks we had remained at them we had fresh pork and all the fruits which were in season in the utmost profusion. Besides fish it out to heat and fowls at the other isles. All these articles we got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, chisels, cloths, red feathers, beads, knives, scissors, looking glasses, etc.
Articles which will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit shirts as a very capital article in making presents especially with those who have any connection with the fair sex. A shirt here is full as necessary as a piece of gold in England. The ladies of Dota Hiti after they had pretty well stripped their lovers of shirts found a method of clothing themselves with their own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning and to return on board in the evening generally clad in rags.
This furnished a pretence to importune the lover for better clothes and when he had no more of his own he was to dress them in new cloth of the country which they always left to shore and appearing again in rags they must again be clothed so that the same suit might pass through twenty different hands and be as often sewed, bought and given away. Before I finish this account of these islands it is necessary to mention all I know concerning the government of Ulitea and Otaha. Ori so often mentioned is a native of Bola Bola but is possessed of Winoes or lands at Ulitea
which I suppose he as well as many of his countrymen got at the conquest. He resides here as Opuni's lieutenant seeming to be vested with regal authority and to be the supreme magistrate in the island. Uuru who is the eerie by hereditary right seems to have little more left him than the bare title and his own Winoa or district in which I think he is sovereign. I have always seen Ori pay him the respect due to his rank and he was pleased when he saw me distinguish him from others.
Otaha so far as I can find is upon the very same footing. Boba and Ota are the two chiefs the latter I have not seen. Boba is a sout well made young man and we were told years after Opuni's death to marry his daughter by which marriage he will be vested with the same regal authority as Opuni has now. So that it would seem though a woman may be vested with regal dignity she cannot have regal power.
I cannot find that Opuni has got anything to himself by the conquest of these isles. Any farther than providing for his nobles who have seized on best part of the lands. He seems to have no demand on them for any of the many articles they have had from us. Oedidi has several times enumerated to me all the axes, nails, etc. which Opuni is possessed of. Which hardly amount to as many as he had from me when I saw him in 1769.
Old as this famous man is he seems not to spend his last days in indolence. When we first arrived here he was at Morana. Soon after he returned to Bola Bola and we were now told he has gone to Tubi. I shall conclude this account of these islands with some observations on the watch. Which Mr. Wales hath communicated to me.
At our arrival at Matavai Bay in Otehite the longitude pointed out by the watch was 2 degrees 8 minutes 38 and a half seconds too far to the west. That is it had gained since our leaving Queen Charlotte's Sound of its then rate of going 8 minutes 34 and a half seconds. This was in about 5 months or rather more during which time it had passed through the extremes of cold and heat. It was judged that half this error arose after we left Easter Island by which it appeared that it went better in the cold than in the hot climates. End of Book 2, Chapter 15, recording by David Cole, Medway, Massachusetts.
End of A Voyage Towards the South Pole and Around the World, Volume 1 by James Cook.
