menu_book Chapter 17

17. The East Indies, Ceylon Departure from Singapore, the island of Penang, Ceylon, Point Degal, excursion into the interior, Colombo, Kandy, the temple of Dagoha, elephant hunt, a return to Colombo and Point Degal. I once more embarked in an English steamer, the Braganza, of 350 horsepower, that left Singapore on the 7th of October. The distance between the two places is 1900 miles. The treatment I

experienced on board this vessel was, it is true, a little different from that on board the other, although it was nearly as bad. There were four of us in the second cabin. We dined alone and had a mulatto servant to attend upon us. Footnote number 128. One of the four had been removed from the first cabin because it was asserted that he was somewhat cracked and did not always know what he said or did. End of footnote. Unfortunately, he was afflicted with elephantiasis and his appearance

did not at all tend to whet the edge of our appetites. During the 7th and 8th of October, we held our course through the strait of Malacca, which separates Sumatra from the peninsula, and during all this time, we never lost sight of land. Malacca is, near the coast, merely hilly, but further in the interior, the hills swell into a fine mountain range. To our left lay a number of mountainous islands, which completely intercepted our view of Sumatra. But if the scenery around

us was not remarkable, the spectacle on board the vessel itself was highly interesting. The crew was composed of 79 persons, comprising Chinese, Malays, Singalese, Bengalis, Hindustanese, and Europeans. As a general rule, those of each country generally took their meals separately with their own countrymen. They all had immense plates of rice and little bowls full of curry. A few pieces of dried fish supplied the place of bread. They poured the curry over the rice, and mixing the

whole together with their hands, made it into small balls, which they put into their mouths with a small piece of fish. About half their food used generally to fall back again into their plates. The costume of these people was very simple. Many of them had nothing more than a pair of short trousers on, with a dirty old turban. And even the place of this was sometimes supplied by a colored rag or a cast-off sailor's cap. The Malays wore long cloths wound round their bodies, with one end

hanging over their shoulder. The Chinese preserved intact their usual costume and mode of life, and the colored servants of the ship's officers were the only ones who were occasionally well and even elegantly dressed. Their costume consisted of white trousers, wide upper garments, also white, with white sashes, silk jackets, and small embroidered white caps or handsome turbans. The manner in which all these poor colored people were treated was certainly not in accordance with

Christian principles. No one ever addressed them but in the roughest manner, and they were kicked and coughed about on every occasion. Even the dirtiest little European cabin boy on board was allowed to act in the most cruel manner and play off the most ignoble practical jokes upon them. Unhappy creatures, how is it possible that they should feel any love for Christians? On the 9th of October, we landed on the small island of Penang. The town of the same name lies

in the midst of a small plain which forms the half of an isthmus. Not far from the town rises a picturesque mountain range. I received five hours leave, which I devoted to riding about in all directions through the town in a palanquin, and even going a little distance into the country. All that I could see resembled what I had already seen at Singapore. The town itself is not handsome, but the contrary is the case with the country houses, which are all situated in beautiful

gardens. The island is intersected by a great number of excellent roads. From one of the neighboring mountains, there is said to be a very fine prospect of Penang, a part of Malacca, and the sea, and on the road to the mountain, a waterfall. Unfortunately, the few hours at my disposal did not allow me to see everything. The greatest portion of the population of this island consists of Chinese who perform all the manual labor and engross all the retail trade.

On the 11th of October, we saw the small island of Pulau Rondo, which appertains to Sumatra. We now took the shortest line across the Bay of Bengal and beheld land no more until we came in sight of Ceylon. On the afternoon of the 17th of October, we neared Ceylon. I strained my anxious eyes to catch a glimpse of it as soon as possible, for it is always described as being a second Eden. Some go so far as to affirm that our common father, Adam, settled there on his expulsion from

paradise, and as a proof of this, adduced the fact of many places in the island, such as Adam's Peak, Adam's Bridge, etc., still bearing his name. I breathed the very air more eagerly, hoping, like other travelers, to inhale the fragrant odors wafted to me from the plantations of costly spices. It was one of the most magnificent sights I ever beheld, to observe the island rising gradually from the sea, and to mark the numerous mountain ranges, which intersect Ceylon in every direction,

becoming every instant more defined, their summits still magically lighted by the setting sun, while the thick coco groves, the hills and plains lay enveloped in dusky night. The fragrant odors, however, were wanting, and the vessels smelt as usual of nothing more than tar, coals, steam and oil. About nine in the evening, we arrived before the harbor at Point de Gaulle, but as the entrance is very dangerous, we quietly hoved to for the night. On the following morning,

two pilots came on board, and took us safely through the narrow passage of deep water leading into the port. Hardly were we landed before we were surrounded by a crowd of people, with precious stones, pearls, tortoise shell and ivory articles for sale. It is possible that a connoisseur may sometimes make a very advantageous purchase, but I would advise those who have not much experience in these things, not to be dazzled by the size and splendor of the said precious stones and pearls.

As the natives, according to all accounts, have learned from Europeans the art of profiting as much as they can by a favorable opportunity. Point de Gaulle is charmingly situated. In the foreground are some fine groups of rock, and in the background, immediately adjoining the little town, which is protected by fortifications, rise magnificent forests of palms. The houses present a neat appearance. They are low and shaded by trees, which in the better streets are planted

so as to form alleys. Point de Gaulle is the place of rendezvous for the steamers from China, Bombay, Calcutta and Suez. Passengers from Calcutta, Bombay and Suez do not stop more than 12 or at most 24 hours, but those proceeding from China to Calcutta have to wait 10 or 14 days for the steamer that carries them to their destination. This delay was to me very agreeable as I profited by it to make an excursion to Kandy. There are two conveyances from Point de Gaulle to Colombo.

The mail which leaves every day and a coach which starts three times a week. The distance is 73 English miles and the journey is performed in 10 hours. A place in the mail costs £1.10 and in the coach £13. As I was pressed for time, I was obliged to go by the first. The roads are excellent. Not a hill, not a stone is there to impede the rapid rate at which the horses that I changed every 8 miles scamper along. The greater portion of the road traversed thick

forests of coco trees at a little distance from the seashore and the whole way was more frequented and more thickly studded with houses than anything I ever saw even in Europe. Village followed village in quick succession and so many separate houses were built between them that there was not a minute that we did not pass one. I remarked also some small towns but the only one worthy of notice was Caltory where I was particularly struck by several handsome houses

inhabited by Europeans. Along the roadside under little roofs of palm leaves were placed large earthen vessels filled with water and near them coconut shells to drink out of. Another measure for the accommodation of travelers which is no less worthy of praise consists in the establishment of little stone buildings roofed in but open at the sides and furnished with benches. In these buildings many wayfarers often pass the night. The number of people and vehicles that we met made the

journey appear to me very short. There were specimens of all the various races which composed the population of Ceylon. The Singhalese properly so called are the most numerous but besides these there are Indians, Mohammedans, Malais, natives of Malabar, Jews, Moors and even Hottentots. I saw numerous instances of handsome and agreeable physiognomies among those of the first three races. The Singhalese youths and boys in particular are remarkably handsome. They possess

mild well-formed features and are so slim and finely built that they might easily be mistaken for girls. An error into which it is the more easy to fall from the manner of dressing their hair. They wear no covering on their head and comb back all their hair which is then fastened behind by means of a comb with the flat broad plate four inches high. This kind of headrest looks anything but becoming in the men. The Mohammedans and Jews have more mocked features. The latter resemble the

Arabs and like them have noble physiognomies. The Mohammedans and Jews too are easily recognized by their shaven heads, long beards and small white caps or turbans. Many of the Indians likewise wear turbans but the most have only a simple piece of cloth tied around their head which is also the case with the natives of Malacca and Malabar. The Hentots allow their coal black hair to fall in root disorder over their foreheads and halfway down their necks. With the exception of the

Mohammedans and Jews none of these different people bestow much care upon their dress. Save a small piece of cloth of about a hand's breadth and fasten between their legs they go about naked. Those who are at all dressed wear short trousers and an upper garment. I saw very few women and these only near their hearts which they appear to leave less than any females with whom I am acquainted. Their dress also was exceedingly simple consisting merely of

an apron bound around their loins, a short jacket that exposed rather than covered the upper part of their body and a sort of rag hanging over their head. Many were enveloped in large pieces of cloth worn loosely about them. The borders and lobes of their ears were pierced and ornamented with earrings while on their feet and arms and around their necks they wore chains and bracelets of silver or some other metal and round one of their toes an extremely massive ring. Anyone would suppose

that in a country where the females are allowed to show themselves so little they would be closely wrapped up but this is not the case. Many had forgotten the jackets and head coverings especially the old women who seemed particularly oblivious in this respect and presented a most repulsive appearance when thus exposed. Among the younger ones I remarked many a handsome and expressive face only they too ought not to be seen without their jackets as their breasts hang down almost to their

knees. The complexion of the population varies from a dark to a light or reddish brown or copper color. The hot and tots are black but without that glossy appearance which distinguishes the negro. It is extraordinary what a dread all these half-naked people have of the wet. It happened to commence raining a little when they sprang like so many rope dancers over every little puddle and hastened to their huts and houses for shelter. Those who were traveling and obliged to continue

their journey held instead of umbrellas the leaves of the great fan palm Corifa umbra culifera over their heads. These leaves are about four feet broad and can be easily held like fans one of them is large enough for two persons but if the natives dread the rain they have no fear of the heat. It is said that they run no risk from the rays of the sun being protected by the thickness of their skulls and the fat beneath. I was much struck by the peculiarity of some of the wagons

which consisted of wooden two-wheeled cars roofs with palm leaves stretching out about four feet before and behind beyond the body of the car. These projections serve to protect the driver from the rain and the rays of the sun whichever way they may chance to fall. The oxen of which there was always only a pair were yoked at such a distance from the wagon that the driver could walk very conveniently in the intervening space. I profited by the half hour allowed for breakfast

to proceed to the seashore once I observed a number of men busily employed on the dangerous rock in the middle of the most violent breakers some of them loosened by the aid of long poles oysters mussels etc from the rocks while others dived down to the bottom to fetch them up. I concluded that there must be pearls contained inside for I could not suppose that human beings would encounter such risks for the sake of the fish alone and yet this was the case for I found

later that though the same means are employed in fishing for pearls it is on the eastern coast during the months of February and March. The boats employed by these individuals were of two kinds the larger ones which contained about 40 persons were very broad and composed of boards joined together and fastened with the fibers of the coco tree. The smaller ones were exactly like those I saw in Tahiti save that they appeared still more dangerous. The bottom was formed of the trunk of

an extremely narrow tree slightly hollowed out and the sides of the planks are kept in their places by side and cross supports. These craft rose hardly a foot and a half out of the water and the greatest breadth did not average quite a foot there was a small piece of plank laid across as a seat but the rower was obliged to cross his knees from want of room to sit with them apart. The road as I mentioned before lay for the most part through forests of coco trees where the

soil was very sandy and completely free from creepers and underwood but near trees that did not bear fruit the soil was rich and both that and the trees covered with creepers and wild luxurians there were very few odd kids. We cross four rivers the Tindurk, Bentok, Katoora and Pandura two by means of boats two by handsome wooden bridges. The cinnamon plantations commenced about 10 miles from Colombo and on this side of the town are all the country houses of the Europeans

they are very simple shaded with coco trees and surrounded with stone walls. At three o'clock in the afternoon we drove over two draw bridges and through two fortified gateways into the town which is far more pleasantly situated than Point de Gal on account of its nearer proximity to the beautiful mountain ranges. I only stopped a night here and on the following morning again resume my journey in the mail to the town of Kandy which is distant 72 miles. We left on the 20th of

October at five o'clock in the morning Colombo is a very extensive town we drove through a succession of long broad streets of handsome houses all of which latter were surrounded by verandas and colonnades. I was very much startled at the number of persons lying stretched out at full length under these verandas and covered with white clothes. I at first mistook them for corpses but I soon perceived that their number was too great to warrant that supposition and I then discovered that they were

only asleep. Many too began to move and throw off their winding sheets. I was informed that the natives prefer sleeping in this manner before the houses to sleeping inside of them. The colony ganga an important river is traversed by a long floating bridge. The road then branches off more and more from the seacoast and the character of the scenery changes. The traveler now meets with large planes covered with fine plantations of rice. The green and juicy appearance of which reminded me of our

own young wheat when it first shoots up in spring. The forests were composed of mere leaf wood, the palms becoming at every step more rare. One or two might sometimes be seen here and there towering aloft like giants and shading everything around. I can imagine nothing more lovely than the sight of the delicate creepers attached to the tall stems of these palms and twining up to their very crests. After we had gone about 16 miles the country began to assume a more hilly aspect and we were soon

surrounded by mountains on every side. At the foot of each ascent we found extra horses in waiting for us. These were yoked to the ordinary team and whirled us rapidly over all obstacles. Although there is a rise of about 2000 feet on the road to Kandy we've performed the distance 72 miles in 11 hours. The nearer we approached our destination the more varied and changing became the scenery. At one time we might be closely hemmed in by the mountains and then the next moment they would

stretch away one above the other while their summits seem to contend which should out-rival the rest and altitude and beauty of Outline. They were covered to the height of several thousand feet with luxuriant vegetation which for the most part then generally seized and gave way to the bare rock. I was not less interested however with the curious themes we sometimes met than I was with the scenery. It is well known that Ceylon abounds in elephants many of which are captured

and employed for various purposes. Those that I now saw were yoked in twos or threes to large wagons full of stones for mending the roads. Four miles before reaching Kandy we came to the river Mahavilaganga which is spanned by a masterly bridge of one arch. The materials of the bridge are most costly consisting of satin wood. In connection with the structure I learned the following legend. After the conquest of the island by the English the natives did not give up hope of

once more attaining their independence because one of their oracles had declared that it was as impossible for the enemy to obtain a lasting dominion over them as it was for the opposite banks of the Mahavilaganga to be united by a road. When the bridge was begun they smiled and said that it could never be successfully completed. At present I was told they think of independence no more. Near the bridge is a botanical garden which I visited the following day and was astonished

at its excellent arrangement and the richness of its collection of flowers plants and trees. Opposite the garden is one of the largest sugar plantations and in the neighborhood a number of coffee plantations. In my opinion the situation of Kandy is most beautiful but many affirm that it is too near the mountains and lies in a pit. At any rate this pit is a very lovely one abounding in the most luxuriant vegetation. The town itself is small and ugly consisting of nothing but a mass

of small shops with natives passing to and fro. The few houses that belong to Europeans, the places of business and the barracks are all outside the town upon small hills. Large sheets of artificial water surrounded by splendid stone balustrades and shaded by alleys of the mighty tulip tree occupy a portion of the valley. On the side of one of these basins stands the famous buddhist temple of Dagoha which is built in the Moorish Hindustani style and richly ornamented. On my leaving the

coach one of the passengers was kind enough to recommend me a good hotel and to call a native and direct him where to conduct me. When I reached the hotel the people there said that they were very sorry but that all the rooms were occupied. I asked them to direct my guide to another establishment which they did. The rascal led me away from the town and pointing to a hill which was near us gave me to understand that the hotel was situated behind it. I believed him as all the

houses are built far apart but on ascending the hill I found nothing but a lonely spot and a wood. I wished to turn back but the fellow paid no attention to my desire and continued walking towards the wood. I then snatched my portmanteau from him and refused to proceed any further. He endeavored to rest it from me when luckily I saw in the distance two english soldiers who hastened up and answered to my cries and on seeing this the fellow ran off. I related my

adventure to the soldiers who congratulated me on the recovery of my luggage and conducted me to the barracks where one of the officers was kind enough to give orders that I should be conducted to another hotel. My first visit was to the temple of the goha which contains a valuable relic of the god buddha namely one of his teeth and together with the outbuildings is surrounded by a wall. The circumference of the principal temple is not very considerable and the sanctuary

which contains the tooth is a small chamber hardly 20 feet broad. Within this place all is darkness as there are no windows and inside the door there is a curtain to prevent the entry of any light. The walls and ceiling are covered with silk tapestry which however has nothing but its antiquity to recommend it. It is true that it was interwoven with gold thread but it appeared never to have been especially costly and I cannot believe that it ever produced that dazzling effect

which some travelers have described. Half of the chamber was encrusted by a large table or kind of altar inlaid with plates of silver and ornamented around the edges with precious stones. On it stands a bell-shaped case measuring at the bottom at least three feet in diameter and the same in height. It is made of silver thickly gilt and decorated with a number of costly jewels. There is a peacock in the middle entirely formed of precious stones but all these treasures

fail to produce any very great effect from the clumsy and inartistic fashion in which they are set. Under the large case there are six smaller ones said to be of pure gold under the last is the tooth of the all-powerful divinity. The outer case is secured by means of three locks two of the keys belonging to which used to be kept by the English governor while the third remained in the custody of the chief priest of the temple. A short time previous to my visit however the

government had restored the two keys to the natives with great solemnities and they are now confided to one of the native ratchas or princes. The relic itself is only shown to a prince or some other great personage. All other people must be content to believe the priest who for a small gratuity has the politeness to describe the size and beauty of the tooth. The dazzling whiteness of its hue is said to eclipse that of ivory while its form is described as being more beautiful than anything

of the kind ever beheld and its size to equal that of the tooth of an immense bullock. An immense number of pilgrims come here every year to pay their adoration to this divine tooth where ignorance is bliss just folly to be wise. How many people are there among us Christians who believe things which require quite as great an amount of faith? For instance I remember witnessing when I was a girl a festival at Calvary in Galicia which is still celebrated every year. A great multitude

of pilgrims go there to obtain splinters of the true cross. The priests manufacture these little crosses of wax on which as they assured the faithful they stick splinters of the real one. These little crosses wrapped up in paper and packed in baskets are placed ready for distribution that is for sale. Every peasant generally takes three one to put in his room one in his table and another in his barn. The most wonderful portion of the business is that these crosses must be

renewed every year as in that period they lose their divine power. But let me return to Kandy. In a second temple adjoining that in which the relic is preserved are two gigantic hollow statues of the god Buddha in a sitting posture and both are said to be formed of the finest gold. Before these colossi stand whole rows of smaller Buddhas of crystal, glass, silver, copper and other materials. In the entrance hall likewise are several stone statues of different gods with

other ornaments most of them roughly and stiffly executed. In the middle stands a small plain monument of stone resembling a bell turned upside down. It is said to cover the grave of a Brahmin. On the outer walls of the principal temple are wretched daubs in fresco representing the state of eternal punishment. Some of the figures are being roasted, twitched with red hot pincers, partly baked or forced to swallow fire. Others again are jammed between rocks or having pieces

of flesh cut out of their bodies etc. But fire appears to play the principal part in these punishments. The doors of the principal temple are made of metal and the door posts of ivory. On the first are the most beautiful arabesques in basso relief and on the second in inlaid work representing flowers and other objects. Before the principal entrance four of the largest elephants teeth ever found are stuck up by way of ornament. Ranged around the courtyard are the tents of the

priests who always go about with bare shaven heads and whose costume consists of a light yellow upper garment which nearly covers the whole body. It is said that there were once 500 officiating priests in this temple. At present the divinity is obliged to content himself with a few dozen. The chief part of the religious ceremonies of the buddhists consists in presence of flowers and money. Every morning and evening a most horrible instrument fit to break the drum of one's

ear and called a tam-tam together with some shrill trumpets and fee-fees is played before the door of the temple. To this soon succeeds a crowd of people from all sides bringing baskets full of the most beautiful flowers with which the priests adorn the altars and that in a manner so elegant and tasty that it cannot be surpassed. Besides this temple there are several others in candy but only one worth noticing. This is situated at the foot of a rocky hill out of which has been

hewn a statue of Buddha 36 feet high and over this is built the temple which is small and elegant. The guard is painted with the most glaring colors. The walls of the temple are covered with handsome red cement and portioned out into small panels in all of which the god buddha appears al fresco. There are also a few portraits of Vishnu another god. The colors on the southern wall of the temple are remarkable for their fine state of preservation. Here likewise there is a funeral monument like that

of the temple of the goa not however in the building itself but under the lofty firmament of heaven and shaded by noble trees. Attached to the temples are frequently schools in which the priests fulfill the duties of teachers. Near this particular temple we saw about a dozen boys girls are not allowed to attend school busy writing. The copies for them were written very beautifully by means of a stylus on small palm leaves and the boys use the same material. It is well worth any

person's while to walk to the great valley through which the maha vilaganga flows. It is intersected with the countless number of wave-like hills many of which form regular terraces and are planted with rice or coffee. Nature is here young and vigorous and amply rewards the planter's toil. The darker portions of the picture are composed of palms or other trees and the background consists partly of towering mountains in a holiday suit of green velvet partly of stupendous and romantic

rocks in all their gloomy nakedness. I saw many of the principal mountains in Ceylon giants 8 000 feet high but unfortunately not the most celebrated one Adams peak which has an altitude of 6 500 feet and which towards the summit is so steep that it was necessary in order to enable anyone to climb up to cut small steps in the rock and let in an iron chain but the bold adventurer is amply repaid for his trouble on the flat summit of the rock is the imprint of a small foot

five feet long the maha medins supposed to be that of our vigorous progenitor Adam and the buddhas that of their large tooth divinity Buddha thousands of both sects flock to the place every year to perform their devotions there still exists at Gandhi the palace of the former king or emperor of Ceylon it is a handsome stone building but with no peculiar feature of its own I should have supposed that it had been built by Europeans it consists of a ground floor somewhat raised with

large windows and handsome porticoes resting upon columns the only remarkable thing about it is a large hall in the interior with its walls decorated with some rough and stiffly executed representations of animals in relief since the English deposed the native sovereign the palace has been inhabited by the English resident or governor had I only arrived a fortnight sooner I should have witnessed the mode of hunting or rather snaring elephants the scene of operations

is a spot on the banks of some stream or other where these animals go to drink a large place is enclosed with posts leading up to which and also skirted by stout posts are a series of narrow passages a tame elephant properly trained is then made fast in the middle of the large space to entice by his cries the thirsty animals who enter unsuspiciously the labyrinth from which they cannot escape as the hunters and drivers follow alarm them by their shouts and drive them into the

middle of the enclosure the finest are taken alive by being deprived of food for a short time this renders them so obedient that they quietly allow a noose to be thrown over them and then follow the tame elephant without the least resistance the others are then either killed or set at liberty according as they possess fine tasks or not the preparations for capturing these animals sometimes last several weeks as besides enclosing the spot selected a great many persons

are employed to hunt up the elephants far and wide and drive them gradually to the watering place persons sometimes go elephant hunting armed merely with firearms but this is attended with danger the elephant as is well known is easily vulnerable in one spot only the middle of the skull if the hunter happens to hit the mark the monster lies stretched before him at the first shot but if he misses then vote to him for he is speedily trampled to death by the enraged beast

in all other cases the elephant is very peaceable and is not easily induced to attack human beings the europeans employ elephants to draw and carry burdens an elephant will carry 40 hundred weight but the natives keep them more for show and riding i left candy after a stay of three days and returned to colombo where i was obliged to stop another day as it was sunday and there was no mail i profited by this period to visit the town which is protected by a strong fort it is very

extensive the streets are handsome broad and clean the house is only one story high and surrounded by verandas and colonnades the population is reckoned at about 80 000 souls of whom about 100 are europeans exclusive of the troops and 200 descendants of portuguese colonists who founded a settlement here some centuries ago the complexion of the latter is quite as dark as that of the natives themselves in the morning i attended mass the church was full of irish soldiers and portuguese

the dress of the portuguese was extremely rich they wore ample robes with large folds and short silk jackets in their years hung earrings of pearls and diamonds and around their necks arms and even ankles were gold and silver chains in the afternoon i took a walk to one of the numerous cinnamon plantations around colombo the cinnamon tree or bush is planted in rows it attains at most a height of nine feet and bears a white

senseless blossom from the fruit which is smaller than an acorn oil is obtained by crushing and boiling it the oil then disengages itself and floats on the top of the water it is mixed with cocoa oil and used for burning there are two cinnamon harvests in the course of the year the first and principal one takes place from april to july and the second from november to january the rent is peeled from the branches by means of knives and then dried in the sun this

gives it a yellowish or brownish tint the best cinnamon is a light yellow and not thicker than pasteboard the essential oil of cinnamon used in medicine is extracted from the plant itself which is placed in a vessel full of water and left to steep for eight to ten days the whole mass is then transferred to a retort and distilled over a slow fire in a short time on the surface of the water thus distilled a quantity of oil collects and this is then skimmed off with the greatest

care in the animal kingdom besides the elephants i was much struck by the number and tameness of the ravens of saloon and every small town and village may be seen multitudes of these birds that come up to the very doors and windows and pick up everything they play the part of scavengers here just as dogs do in turkey the horned cattle are rather small with humps between the shoulder blades these humps consist of flesh and are considered a great dainty in colombo and point

the gull there are likewise a great many large white buffalos belonging to the english government and imported from bengal they are employed in drawing heavy loads under the head of fruit i may mention the pineapple as being particularly large and good i found the temperature supportable especially in the high country roundabout candy where after some heavy rain it might almost be cold in the evening and morning the thermometer stood as low as 61 degrees 25 fahrenheit

and in the middle of the day and in the sun it did not rise above 79 degrees 25 in colombo and point the gull the weather was fine and the heat reached 95 degrees fahrenheit on the 26th of october i again reached point the gull and on the following day i embarked in another english steamer for india end of section 17 recording by supra the urval from saratoga california