menu_book Chapter 39

Section 39 of A Woman's Journey Round the World. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Anna Simon. A Woman's Journey Round the World by Ida Laura Pfeiffer. Part 2 of Chapter 22.

Asiatic Russia. Armenia, Georgia and Mongolia. 29th of August. This morning I had still one stage of 24 versity, ere I reached Tiflis. The road was, as everywhere else, full of holes, ruts and stones. I was obliged always to tie a handkerchief tightly round my head to ease the jolting, and still I was every day attacked with headache. Today, however, I learnt the full nuisance of these carriages. It had rained, not only during

the whole night, but still continued so. The wheels threw up such masses of mud that I soon sat in a thick puddle. I was covered even over the head, and my face did not escape. Small boards hanging over the wheels would have easily remedied this inconvenience, but none troubled themselves in this country about the comfort of travellers. Tiflis comes in sight during the latter half of the stage. The prospect of the town charmed me much, as, with the exception of a few church towers,

it was built in the European style. And, since Valpariso, I had not seen any town resembling the European. Tiflis contains 50,000 inhabitants, it is the capital of Georgia, and is situated tolerably near the mountains. Many of the houses are built on hills, on high, steep rocks. From some of the hills there is a beautiful view of the town and valley. The latter, at the time of my visit, was not very attractive, as the harvest had deprived it of all the charms of colour.

There were also but few gardens, etc. On the other hand, the river Currie, generally called Cyrus, winds in graceful curves through the town and valley, and in the far distance sparkle the snow-crowned summits of the Caucasus. A strong citadel, Nar Clea, is situated upon steep rocks immediately before the town. The houses are large and tastefully ornamented with façades and columns and covered with sheet iron or bricks. The Irvansky place is very handsome. Among the buildings,

the Palace of the Governor, the Greek and Armenian seminaries, and several barracks are conspicuous. The large theatre in the centre of the Irvansky place was not then finished. It is evident that the old town must give place to the new one. Everywhere houses are being pulled down and new ones built. The narrow streets will soon only be known by tradition, and the only remains of the Oriental architecture are the Greek and Armenian houses. The churches are far inferior in splendour

and magnitude to the other buildings. The towers are low, round, and generally covered with green glazed tiles. The oldest Christian church stands upon a high rock in the fortress and is used only for the prisoners. The bazaars and khan present no features worthy of notice. Moreover, there are already here, as in all European towns, shops and stores in all the streets. Several white bridges are thrown over the curry. The town contains numerous warm, sulphurated springs from which

indeed it derives its name, Tiflis or Ibilisi, meaning warm town. Unfortunately, the greater number of the many baths are in the worst condition. The buildings within which the springs are enclosed are surmounted by small cupulas with windows. The reservoirs, the floor and walls are for the most part covered with large stone slabs. Very little marble is to be seen. There are private and public baths, and men are not allowed to enter the buildings where the women assemble. However,

they are not nearly so strict here as in the east. The gentleman who was so countess to accompany me to one of these baths was permitted to come into the anteroom, although it was separated from the bathing place only by a simple wooden partition. Not far from the baths lies the botanic garden, which has been laid out at great expense under the cleavity of a mountain. The terraces, which had to be artificially cut, are supported by masonry and filled with earth. Why such an unsuitable place

was chosen I cannot imagine, the less so as I saw only a few rare plants and shrubs, and everywhere nothing but grape vines. I fancied myself in a vineyard. The most remarkable things in this garden are two vine-stocks, whose stems were each a foot in diameter. They are so extended in grows and long rows that they form pleasant walks. More than a thousand flasks of wine are annually obtained from these two vines. A large grotto has been excavated in one of the upper terraces,

whose whole front side is open and forms a high-arted hole. In the fine summer evenings there is music, dancing and even theatrical performances. On Sundays and festivals, the pretty gardens of the governor are open to the public. There are swings and winding paths and two bands of music. The music executed by the Russian military was not so good as that which I heard by the blacks in Rio de Janeiro. When I visited the Armenian church, the corpse of a child

had just been laid out. It was in a costly open beer, covered with red velvet and richly ornamented with gold lace. The corpse was strewn over with flowers, decorated with a crown and covered with fine white gauze. The priests in sumptuous robes conducted the funeral ceremonies, which were very similar to the Catholic. The poor mother, at whose side I accidentally happened to kneel, sobbed loudly when preparations were made to carry away the dear remains. I also could not restrain my tears.

I wept not for the death of the child, but for the deep grief of the afflicted parent. Leaving this place of mourning, I visited some Greek and Armenian families. I was received in spacious rooms, which were fitted up in the most simple manner. Along the walls stood painted wooden benches, partly covered with rugs. On these benches the people sit, eat and sleep. The women wear Grecian dresses. European and Asiatic costumes are seen so frequently together in the streets

that neither the one nor the other appears peculiar. The greatest novelty to me in this respect was the Cacassian dress. It consists of wide trousers, short coats full of folds with narrow sashes, and breast pockets from six to ten cartridges, tight half-boots with points turned inwards, and close-fitting fur caps. The more wealthy wore coats of fine dark blue cloth, and the edges were ornamented with silver. The Cacassians are distinguished from all other

Caucasian people by their beauty. The men are tall, have very regular features and great ease in their motions. The women are of a more delicate build. Their skin is whiter, their hair dark, their features regular, their figures slender, with their busts well developed. In the Turkish harems they are considered the greatest beauties. I must confess, however, that I have seen many handsomer women in the Persian harems than in the Turkish, even when they contained Cacassians. The Asiatic

women, when in the streets here, wrap themselves in large white mantles. Many cover their mouth as well, and some view the remainder of the face. Of the domestic life of the Russian officials and officers I cannot say much. I had indeed a letter to the Chancellor-Director, Herr von Lille, and to the Governor, Herr von Miermaloff. But both gentlemen were not much pleased with me. My free expression of opinion perhaps did not suit them. I made no scruple of speaking my mind

with regard to the ill-regulated posting establishments and the miserable roads. I, moreover, related my imprisonment with a few comments. And, what crowned all, I said that I intended to have gone on from here across the Caucasus to Moscow and Petersburg, but that I had been completely deterred from doing so by my short experience of travelling in the country, and would take the shortest road to get beyond the frontier as soon as possible.

If I had been a man and had spoken so, I should probably have been treated with a temporary residence in Siberia. Herr von Lille, however, always received me with politeness when I called on him for the purpose of having my passport repaired. The Governor did not treat me with like consideration. First he put me off from one day to another, then it pleased the mighty man to pass two days in the country. When he came back it was a Sunday, on which day such a great

work could not possibly be done, and so I did not obtain my passport until the sixth day. Thus it fared with me, who was provided with letters to the Chief Officers. How do poor people come off? I heard, indeed, that they are often kept waiting two or three weeks. The Viceroy, Prince Voronsu, was unfortunately not in Tiflis at the time. I regretted his absence the more, as I everywhere heard him represented as an educated, just, and extremely amiable man.

Far pleasanter than these visits to the Russian Governor was that to the Persian Prince Behrman Mirza, to whom I brought letters and intelligence from his family who were remaining in Tiflis. Although he was ill at the time, nevertheless he received me. I was conducted into a large saloon, a complete hospital for eight sick persons. The Prince, four of his children, and three wives, laid there upon rugs and cushions. They all suffered from fever.

The Prince was a remarkably handsome and powerful man of five and thirty. His full eyes were expressive of intelligence and goodness. He spoke with great regret of his fatherland. A smile of painful delight played round his features when I mentioned his children, and related how safely and well I travelled through those provinces which, but a short time before, had been under his control. What a happiness would it be for

Persia if such a man as this was to come to the throne, inside of the young Viceroy. The most interesting and at the same time useful acquaintance which I made was that of Herzaldsmann, a German. This gentleman possesses considerable knowledge of agriculture, and more than all, a singularly good heart. He interests himself for all kinds of people, and more especially his own countrymen. Wherever I mentioned his name, people spoke of him with true respect. He had just

received a decoration from the Russian government, although he was not in their service. Herzaldsmann has built a very handsome house, with every possible convenience for the reception of travelers. Besides this he owns a large fruit garden, ten-versity distant from the town, in the neighborhood of which are some naphtha-springs. When he found that I wished to see these he immediately invited me to join a party to visit them. The springs are situated very near to

the curry. Square pits about twenty-five fathoms deep are dug, and the naphtha is dipped out by means of wooden buckets. This naphtha, however, is of the commonest kind, of a dark brown colour, and thicker than oil. Asphalt, card grease, etc. are made from it. The fine white naphtha, which can be used for lighting and fuel, is peculiar to the Caspian Sea. A walk to the Chapel of David, which lies upon a hill immediately in front of the town,

repays the trouble. Besides the lovely country, there is to be seen here a fine monument directed in memory of the Russian ambassador, Kribolyetov, who was murdered in Persia on the occasion of a revolt. A cross, at the foot of which lies his mourning wife, is very artistically cast in metal. On Monday the 5th of September I received my passport, about eleven o'clock. I ordered the post-carriage an hour afterwards. Herr Salzmann proposed that I should visit some German settlements,

which are situated at about ten or twenty wersity from Tieflies, and offered to accompany me there. But I had not much inclination to do so, more particularly as I'd heard everywhere, the settlers had already much degenerated, and that idleness, fraud, dirt, drunkenness, etc. was not less frequent among them than in the Russian colonies. I left Tieflies about three in the afternoon. Just outside the town stands, by the roadside, a cross cast in metal, with the eye

of Providence upon a pedestal of polished granite, surrounded by an iron railing. An inscription states that, on the 12th of October in the year 1837, his Imperial Majesty was upset here, but that he had escaped without injury, erected by his grateful subjects. This incident appears, therefore, to have been one of the most remarkable in the life of this powerful ruler, as it has been commemorated by a monument. It has certainly not been erected without the approval of the Emperor.

I am by no means certain which is the most to be wondered at, the people who place it here, or the monarch who permitted it. I went only one stage to the day, but it was so long that I had to continue my journey into the evening. To go any further was not to be thought of, as the country, not only here, but in the greater part of this province, is so unsafe that it is impossible to travel in the evening or night without the protection of Cossacks, for which purpose a

small company is placed at each station. The scenery was rather agreeable. Pretty hills and closed pleasant-looking valleys, and on the tops of some mountains stood ruins of castles and fortified places. There were times in the history of this kingdom, as well as the German, when one noble made war upon the others, and no man was safe of his life and property. The nobles lived in fortified castles upon hills and mountains, went out mailed and harnessed like

knights, and when threatened by hostile attacks their subjects fled to the castles. There are still said to be people who wear, either over or under the clothes, shirts of mail and helmets instead of caps. I did not, however, see anything of the kind. The River Currie continued to run along by our road. Not far from the station a long handsome bridge led across, but it was so awkwardly placed that it was necessary to go out of the way a whole verse to reach it.

Sixth September. The journey became still more romantic. Bushes and woods covered the hills and valleys, and the tall-stemmed, rich green Turkish corn waved in the fields. There were also numbers of old castles and fortresses. Towards evening, after having with great exertion travelled four stages, I reached the little town of Gori, whose situation was exceedingly charming. Wooded mountains surrounded it in wide circles, while nearer at hand rose pretty groups of hills. Nearly in the

centre of the mass of houses a hill was to be seen, whose summit was crowned by a citadel. The little town possesses some pretty churches, private houses, barracks and a neat hospital. Both towns and villages here lose the oriental character entirely. When the atmosphere is clear, the Caucasian mountains are to be seen rising in three ranges between the Caspian and Black Seas, forming the boundary between Asia and Europe. The highest

points are the Alperus and the Kasbek. These, according to a new geography, are of the respective heights of 16,800 and 14,000 feet. The mountains were covered with snow far down their sides. Seventh September. Today I travelled one stage as far as Suram. I could not proceed any further, as twelve horses were ordered for an officer who was returning from a bathing place with his wife and friends. Suram lies in a fruitful valley, in the centre of which rises a beautiful mountain

with the ruins of an old castle. In order to dispel my bad humour, I took a walk to this old castle. Although it was considerably ruined, the lofty arches, stately walls and extensive fortifications showed that the noble knight had lived tolerably sumptuously. On the return, nothing astonished me more than the number of animals yoked to the ploughs. The fields lay in the finest plains, the ground was loose and free from stones, and yet each plough was drawn by

twelve or fourteen oxen. Eight September. The mountains drew nearer and nearer together, the prospect became more beautiful. Climbing plans, wild hops, vines, etc. twined round the trees to their highest branches, and the underwood grew so thick and luxuriantly that it called to my mind the vegetation of the Brazils. The third stage was for the greater part of the way, along the banks of the river Merabka, through a narrow valley. The road between the river and

the mountainside was so narrow that in many places there was only room for one carriage. We had frequently to wait ten or twenty minutes to allow the cars loaded with wood, of which we met a great number, to pass us, and yet this was called a post-road. Georgia has been for fifty years under Russian dominion, and only within a recent time have roads been commenced here and there. Fifty years hence they may perhaps be finished, or fallen again into decay.

Bridges are as scarce as roads. The rivers, such as the Merabka, are crossed in miserable ferry boats, those which are shallower must be forded. In times of rain or sudden thaw in the snow mountains the rivers are overflowed, and travelers must then either wait some days or risk their lives. What a tremendous difference between the colonies of Russia and England! Late in the evening I arrived, wet through and covered with mud, at the station, Tuversty from Kutais. It is remarkable

that the post houses are generally one or two versity from the villages or towns. A traveler, in consequence of this custom, is exposed to the inconvenience of making a special journey if he has anything to attend to in those places. 9th September. Kutais contains ten thousands inhabitants and lies in a natural park. All round is the most luxuriant vegetation. The houses are neat and ornamental. The green painted church towers and barracks peep invitingly from between.

The large river Rebun separates the town from the large citadel, which very picturesquely occupies a neighboring hill. The dresses of the people are as various as round teflis. The headgear of the Mingrelian peasants appears truly comic. They wear round black felt caps in the shape of a plate fastened by a string under the chin. The women frequently wear the tartarian shauba, over which they throw a veil, which, however, is put back so that the face is seen. The men wear in the mornings

and in rainy weather large black collars, called burki, of sheep's wool or felt, which reach below the knees. I must here mention that the beauty for which Georgians are so famous must not be sought for among the common people. I did not find them particularly handsome. The carts which the peasants use are remarkable. The front part rests upon curved pieces of wood or sledge bars, the hinder part upon two small thick disks of wood. My stay in Kutais was caused by the want of horses. It was

not till two o'clock in the afternoon that I could continue my journey. I had two stages to reach the village of Marante, which lies on the river Ribon, where the post cars are changed for a boat by which the journey to Redecali on the Black Sea is made. The first stage passes chiefly through fine woods, the second presents an open view over fields and meadows. The houses and huts are quite buried beneath bushes and trees. We met a number of peasants who, although they had only a few fowls,

eggs, fruits, etc. to carry to the town for sale, were nevertheless on horseback. There was abundance of grass and willow trees, and consequently of horses and horned cattle. At Marante I stopped for want of an inn with a cossack. These people, who also live here as settlers, have pretty wooden cottages with two or three rooms and a piece of land which they use as field and garden. Some of them receive travelers and know how to charge enough for the miserable accommodation they afford.

I paid twenty coppax, eightpence, for a dirty room without a bed and as much for a chicken. Beyond that I had nothing, for the people are too lazy to fetch what they have not by them. If I wanted bread or anything that my host had not got, I might seek for it myself. As I have said before, it is only for an officer that they will make any exertion. I had left Tiflis about three in the afternoon of the 5th of September and reached this place in the evening of the 9th,

five days to travel 274 weresty, 195 miles. I call that a respectable Russian post. The boat did not start for Redkali, a distance of 80 weresty, until the morning of the 11th. It was bad weather and the Ribbon, otherwise a fine river, cannot be navigated during a strong wind, on account of the projecting trunks of trees and logs. The scenery still continued beautiful and picturesque. The stream flows between woods, maize and millet fields, and the view extends over

hills and mountains to the distant and gigantic carcasses. Their singular forms, peaks, sunken plateaus, split domes, etc., appear sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left, in front and behind, according to the ever-changing windings of the river. We frequently halted and landed, every one running to the trees. Grapes and figs were abundant, but the former were a sourest vinegar and latter hard and small. I found a single one ripe, and that I threw away when I tasted it.

The fig trees were of a size such as I had never seen, either in India or Sicily. I believe the whole sap is here converted into wood and leaves. In the same way, the great height of the vines may be the cause of the graves being so small and bad. There must suddenly be a great field for improved cultivation here. 12th September. Our boat did not go far. There was a smart breeze, and as we were already near the Black Sea, we were obliged to remain at anchor. 13th September. The wind had

dropped and we could, without danger, trust ourselves on the sea, upon which we had to sail for some hours from the principal arm of the Ribon to that on which Red-At-Kali was situated. There was indeed a canal leading from the one to the other, but it can only be passed at very high water, as it is much filled with drift sand. In Red-At-Kali, a speculating Kazakh host also received me, who had three little rooms for guests. According to the Russian calendar, this was the

last day of August. On the 1st of September, the steamer was to come and sail again after two hours. I therefore hastened to the commandant of the town to have my passport signed and to request admittance to the ship. Government steamers plied twice every month, on the 1st and 15th, from Red-At-Kali to Odessa by way of Kerch. Sailing vessels rarely offer an opportunity of passage. These steamers always keep close into the coast. They touch at eighteen stations,

fortresses and military posts, carry military transports of all kinds, and convey all passengers free. Travelers must, however, be content with the deck place. The cabins are few and belong to the crew and hire officers, who frequently travel from one station to another. No places can be had by paying for them. The commandant prepared my passport and ticket directly. I cannot avoid remarking in this place that the prolixity of writing by the Russian government officials

far exceeds that of the Austrians, which I had formerly considered impossible. Instead of a simple signature, I received a large written sheet of which several copies were taken, the whole ceremony occupying more than half an hour. The steamer did not arrive until the 5th Russian calendar. Nothing is more tedious than to wait from hour to hour for a conveyance, especially when it is necessary, in addition, to be ready to start at any moment.

Every morning I packed up. I did not venture to cook a fowl or anything else, for fear I should be called away from it as soon as ready, and it was not until the evening that I felt a little safer and could walk out a little. From what I could see of the neighborhood of Rettikali and Mingrivia altogether, the country is plentifully furnished with hills and mountains. Large valleys lie between, and the hull are covered with rich woods. The air is on that account moist and

unhealthy, and it rains very frequently. The rising sun draws up such dense vapors that they float like impenetrable clouds four or five feet above the earth. These vapors are said to be the cause of many diseases, especially fever and dropsy. In addition to this, the people are so foolish as to build their houses in among the bushes and under thick trees instead of in open, airy and sunny places. Villages are frequently passed, and scarcely are houses to be seen.

The men are remarkably idle and stupid. They are tawny and lean. The natives seldom reach the age of sixty, and it is said that the climate is even more unhealthy for strangers. Still, I believe that much might be done in this country by industrious settlers and agriculturists. There is abundance of land, and three-fourths of it certainly lies uncultivated. By thinning the woods and draining the land, the badness of the climate would be lessened. It is already, even without cultivation,

very fruitful, at how much this might be increased by a proper and rational mode of treatment. Rich grass grows everywhere, mixed with the best herbs and clover. Fruit grows wild. The vines run up to the tops of the highest trees. It is said that in time of rain the ground is so soft that only wooden ploughs are used. Turkish corn is most generally grown, and a kind of millet, called gum. The inhabitants prepare the wine in the most simple manner. They hollow out the trunk of a tree,

and tread the grapes in it. They then pour the juice into earthen vessels, and bury these in the ground. The character of the ingredients is said to be altogether bad, and they are generally looked upon as thieves and robbers. Murders are said not to be unfrequent. They carry off one another's wives, and are much addicted to drunkenness. The father trains the children to stealing, and the mother to obscenity. Kolkis, or Mingrelia, lies at the end of the Black Sea,

and towards the north on the Caucasian mountains. The neighboring people were formerly known in the name of Hans and Alani. The Amazons are said to have dwelled in the country between the Caucasus and the Caspian Sea. The little town of Radat-Kali may contain about fifteen hundred inhabitants. The men are so indolent that, during the five days that I passed here, I could not procure a few grapes or figs for love or money. I went daily to the

bazaar, and never found any for sale. The people are too lazy to bring wood from the forest. They work only when the greatest necessity compels them, and require to be paid exorbitantly. I paid as much, if not more, for eggs, milk, and bread as I would have done in Vienna. It might well be said that the people are here in the midst of plenty, and yet almost starve. I was not better pleased by the thoughtless and meaningless performance of religious ceremonies

among these people. On all occasions they cross themselves before eating or drinking, before entering a room, before putting on an article of clothing, etc. The hands have nothing else to do but to make crosses. But the most provoking thing of all is that they stand still before every church they pass, bow half a dozen times, and cross themselves without end. When they are travelling, they stop their carriages to perform this ceremony.

While I was at Reddit Kali, a vessel sailed. The priests were brought on board and were obliged to go all over the ship and pronounce a blessing upon it on every corner of the sails. They crept into every cabin or hole and at last blessed the sailors, who laughed at them for their trouble. I constantly found that there was less real religion in those places where there was the most parade made of it. End of chapter 22