Chapter 39
CHAPTER XXXIX. SCANTY FAIR DURING THE WINTER. A POOR HUNTING GROUND. THE RETURN OF THE FISHING SEASON. THE UTHLEKAN OR SMELT.
ITS QUALITIES. VAST SHOLES OF IT. STURGEON. INDIAN MODES OF TAKING IT. THE SAMMON.
DIFFERENT SPECIES. THE TEMPERATURE OF A COUNTRY ABOUT THE COAST. FORESTS AND FOREST TREES. A REMARKABLE FLOWERING VINE. ANIMALS, BIRDS, REPTILS.
CLIMATE WEST OF THE MOUNTAINS. MILDNESS OF THE TEMPERATURE. SOIL OF THE COAST AND THE INTERIOR. THE WINTER PASSED AWAY TRANQUILY AT ASTORIA. THE APPREHENSIONS OF HOSTILITY FROM THE NATIVES HAD SUBSIDED.
INDEED AS THE SEASON ADVANCED, THE INDIANS FOR THE MOST PART HAD DISAPPEARED FROM THE NEIGHBORHOOD AND ABANDONED THE SEA COAST, SO THAT, FOR WANT OF THEIR AID, THE COLONISTS HAD AT TIMES SUFFERED CONSIDERABLY FOR WANT OF PROVISIONS. THE HUNTERS BELONGING TO THE ESTABlishment MADE FREQUENT AND WIDE EXCURSIONS, BUT WITH VERY MODERATE SUCCESS.
THERE WERE SOME DEER AND A FEW BEARS TO BE FOUND IN THE VECINITY, AND ELK IN GREAT NUMBERS. THE COUNTRY, HOWEVER, WAS SO RUFF, AND THE WOODS SO CLOSE AND ENTANGLED, THAT IT WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO BEAT UP THE GAME. THE PREVALENT RAINS OF WINTER ALSO RENDERED IT DIFFICULT FOR THE HUNTER TO KEEP HIS ARMS IN ORDER.
THE QUANTITY OF GAME, THEREFORE, BROUGHT IN BY THE HUNTERS WAS EXTREMELY SCANTY, AND IT WAS FREQUENTLY NECESSARY TO PUT ALL HANDS ON VERY MODERATE ALLOWANCE. IN THE FOOT SPRING, HOWEVER, THE FISHING SEASON COMMENCED, THE SEASON OF PLENTY ON THE COLUMBIA. ABOUT THE BEGINNING OF FEBRUARY, A SMALL KIND OF FISH, ABOUT SIX INCHES LONG, CALLED BY THE NATIVES THE UTHLEKAN, AND RESIMBLING THE SMELT, MADE ITS APPEARANCE AT THE MOUTH OF
THE RIVER. IT IS SAID TO BE OF DELICIOUS FLAVOR AND SO FAT AS TO BURN LIKE A CANDLE, FOR WHICH IT IS OFTEN USED BY THE NATIVES. IT ENTERS THE RIVER IN IMMENSE SHOLE, LIKE SOLID COLUMBS, OFTEN EXTENDING TO THE DEPTH OF FIVE OR MORE FEET, AND IS SCOOPED UP BY THE NATIVES WITH SMALL NETS AT THE END OF
POLES. IN THIS WAY THEY WILL SOON FILL A CANOE, OR FORM A GREAT HEAP UPON THE RIVER BANKS. THESE FISH CONSTITUTE A PRINCIPAL ARTICLE OF THEIR FOOD, THE WOMEN DRYING THEM AND STRINGING THEM ON COORDS. AS THE UTHLECAN IS ONLY FOUND IN THE LOWER PART OF THE RIVER, THE ARRIVAL OF IT SOON
BROUGHT BACK THE NATIVES TO THE COAST, WHO AGAIN RESORTED TO THE FACTORY TO TRADE, AND FROM THAT TIME FURNISHED PLENTIFUL SUPPLIES OF FISH. THE STURGEON MAKES ITS APPEARANCE IN THE RIVER SHORTLY AFTER THE UTHLECAN, AND IS TAKEN IN DIFFERENT WAYS BY THE NATIVES. SOMETIMES THEY SPEAR IT, BUT OFTENER THEY USE THE HOOK AND LINE AND THE NET.
OCCASIONALLY THEY SINK A COARD IN THE RIVER BY A HEAVY WEIGHT WITH A BOOEY AT THE UPPER END TO KEEP FLOATING. TO THIS COARD SEVERAL HOOKS ARE ATTACHED BY SHORT LINES A FEW FEET DISTANT FROM EACH OTHER AND BATED WITH SMALL FISH. THIS APPEARANCE IS OFTEN SET TOWARDS NIGHT AND BY THE NEXT MORNING SEVERAL STURGEON
WILL BE FOUND HOOKED BY IT. FOR THOUGH A LARGE AND STRONG FISH IT MAKES BUT LITTLE RESISTANCE WHEN ENSNARED. THE SAMMON, WHICH ARE THE PRIME FISH OF THE COLUMBIA, AND AS IMPORTANT TO THE PISCATORY TRIBES AS ARE THE BUFFALOES TO THE HUNTERS OF THE PRAIRIES, DO NOT ENTER THE RIVER UNTIL TOWARDS THE LATTER PART OF MAY, FROM WHICH TIME UNTIL THE MIDDLE OF AUGUST THEY ABOUND
AND ARE TAKEN IN VAST QUANTITIES WITH EITHER THE SPEAR OR SAIN AND MOSTLY IN SHALLOW WATER. When inferior species succeeds and continues from August to December, it is remarkable for having a double row of teeth, half an inch long and extremely sharp, from whence it has received the name of the dog-toothed salmon. It is generally killed with the spear in small rivulets and smoked for winter provision.
We have noticed in a former chapter the mode in which the salmon are taken and cured at the falls of the Columbia and put up in parcels for exportation. From these different fisheries of the river tribes, the establishment at Astoria had to derive much of its precarious supply of provisions. A year's residence at the mouth of the Columbia and various expeditions in the interior had
now given the Astorians some idea of the country. The whole coast is described as remarkably rugged and mountainous, with dense forests of henlock, spruce, white and red cedar, cottonwood, white oak, white and swamp ash, willow and a few walnut. There is likewise an undergrowth of aromatic shrubs, creepers and clambering vines that
render the forests almost impenetrable. Together with berries of various kinds, such as gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries both red and yellow, very large and finely flavored wortel berries, cranberries, service berries, blackberries, currants, slows and wild and choke cherries. Among the flowering vines is one deserving of particular notice.
Each flower is composed of six leaves or petals about three inches in length of a beautiful crimson and inside spotted with white. Each leaves of a fine green are oval and disposed by threes. This plant climbs upon the trees without attaching itself to them. When it has reached the topmost branches it descends perpendicularly and as it continues
to grow extends from tree to tree until its various stalks interlace the grove like the rigging of a ship. The stems or trunks of this vine are tougher and more flexible than willow and are from 50 to 100 fathoms in length. From the fibers the Indians manufacture baskets of such close texture as to hold water.
The principal quadrupeds that had been seen by the colonists in their various expeditions were the stag, fallow deer, heart, black and grizzly bear, antelope, asata or bighorn, beaver, sea and river otter, muskrat, fox, wolf and panther, the latter extremely rare. The only domestic animals among the natives were horses and dogs. The country abounded with aquatic and land birds such as swans, wild geese, brant, ducks
of almost every description, pelicans, herons, gulls, snipes, curlews, eagles, vultures, crows, ravens, magpies, woodpeckers, pigeons, partridges, pheasants, grouse and a great variety of singing birds. There were few reptiles, the only dangerous kinds were the rattlesnake and one striped with black, yellow and white about four feet long.
Among the lizard kind was one about nine or ten inches in length exclusive of the tail and three inches in circumference. The tail was round and of the same length as the body. The head was triangular, covered with small square scales. The upper part of the body was likewise covered with small scales, green, yellow, black and
blue. Each foot had five toes furnished with strong nails, probably to aid it in burrowing as it usually lived underground on the plains. A remarkable fact, characteristic of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, is the mildness and equability of the climate.
The Great Mountain Barrier seems to divide the continent into different climates, even in the same degrees of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultry summers and all the capricious inequalities of temperature prevalent on the Atlantic side of the mountains are but little felt on their western declivities. The countries between them and the Pacific are blessed with milder and steadier temperature
resembling the climates of parallel latitudes in Europe. In the plains and valleys but little snow falls throughout the winter and usually melts while falling. It rarely lies on the ground more than two days at a time, except on the summits of the mountains.
The winters are rainy rather than cold. The rains for five months, from the middle of October to the middle of March, are almost incessant and often accompanied by tremendous thunder and lightning. The winds prevalent at this season are from the south and southeast, which usually bring rain.
Those from the north to the southwest are harbingers of fair weather and a clear sky. The residue of the year from the middle of March to the middle of October, an interval of seven months, is serene and delightful. There is scarcely any rain throughout this time, yet the face of the country is kept fresh and verdant by nightly dewes and occasionally by humid fogs in the mornings.
These are not considered prejudicial to health, since both the natives and the whites sleep in the open air with perfect impunity. While this equable and bland temperature prevails throughout the lower country, the peaks and the vast mountains by which it is dominated are covered with perpetual snow. This renders them discernible at a great distance, shining at times like bright summer clouds,
at other times assuming the most aerial tints, and always forming brilliant and striking features in the vast landscape. The mild temperature prevalent throughout the country is attributed by some to the succession of winds from the Pacific Ocean, extending from latitude 20 degrees to at least 50 degrees north.
These temper the heat of summer, so that in the shade no one is incommoded by perspiration. They also soften the rigors of winter and produce such a moderation in the climate that the inhabitants can wear the same dress throughout the year. The soil in the neighborhood of the seacoast is of a brown color, inclining to red and generally poor, being a mixture of clay and gravel.
In the interior, especially in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the soil is generally blackish, though sometimes yellow. It is frequently mixed with marl and with marine substances in a state of decomposition. This kind of soil extends to a considerable depth, as may be perceived in the deep cuts made by ravines and by the beds of rivers.
The vegetation in these valleys is much more abundant than near the coast. In fact, it is these fertile intervals, locked up between rocky sierras or scooped out from barren wastes, that population must extend itself, as it were, in veins and ramifications if ever the regions beyond the mountains should become civilized. End of chapter 39
