Chapter 7
Chapter 7 of Culture and Cooking, or Art in the Kitchen. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Aaron Rivera. Culture and Cooking, or Art in the Kitchen, by Catherine Owen. Chapter 7 on Frying and Broiling.
Frying is one of the operations in cookery in which there are more failures than any other, or, at least, there appear to be more, because the failure is always so very apparent. Nothing can make a dish of breaded cutlets on which our bald white spots look inviting, or livid-looking fish just flaked here and there with the bread that has been persuaded to stay on. And, provided you have enough fat in the pan, there should always be enough to immerse the article.
Therefore, use a deep iron or enameled pan. There can be but two reasons why you fail. Your fat has not been hot enough, or your crumbs have not been fine and even. Many suppose when the fat bubbles and boils in the pan that it is quite hot. It is far from being so.
Others, again, are so much near the truth that they know it must become silent. That is, boil and cease to boil before it is ready. But even that is not enough. It must be silent sometime. smoke, and appear to be on the point of burning, then drop a bit of bread in.
If it crisps and takes color directly, quickly put in your articles. These articles, whether cutlets or fish, must have been carefully prepared, or herein may lie the second cause of failure. Any cookery book will give you directions how to crumb, follow them. But what some do not tell you is that your breadcrumb should be finely sifted.
Every coarse crumb is liable to drop off and bring with it a good deal of the surrounding surface. I also follow the French plan in using the egg and mix with it oil and water in the proportions of three eggs, one tablespoon of oil, one of water, and a little salt beat together and use. It is a good plan to keep a supply of panneur or dried breadcrumbs always ready. Cut any slices of baker's bread, dry them in a cool oven so that they remain quite colorless or they will not do for the purpose.
When as dry as crackers, crush under a rolling pin, and sift, keep in a jar for use. In no branch of cooking is excellence more appreciated than in that of frying. A dish of filets de sole, or cutlets, crisp and golden brown, is an ornament to any table, and is seldom disdained by anyone. Apropos of filet de sole, it is very high-sounding, yet very attainable, as I shall show.
I was staying with a friend early in spring, a lady always anxious for table novelties. Oh, do tell me what fish to order. I should like something fried, now that you are here to tell Cook how to do it. She hasn't the wildest idea, although she would be astounded to hear me say so. Have you ever had flounders? I asked. Flounders? My friend's pretty nose went up the eighth of an inch, and her confidence in my powers as counselor went down to zero. Flounders? But they are a very
common fish, you know. I know they are delicious, I answered. Order them and trust me, but I must coax the autocrat of your kitchen to allow me to cook and prepare them myself. An hour before dinner, I went into the kitchen, put at least a pound of lard into a deep frying pan, and set it to where it would get gradually hot. Then I turned my attention to the fish. They were thick, firm flounders, and ready to be cleaned, scraped, and the heads off. I then proceeded to bone one in
the following way. Take a sharp knife and split the flounder right down the middle of the back, then run the knife carefully between the flesh and bones going toward the edge. You have now detached one quarter of the flesh from the bone. Do the other half in the same way. When the back is thus entirely loose from the bone, turn the fish over and do the same with the other part. You will now find you can remove the bone whole from the fish, detaching as you do so any flesh
still retaining the bone. Then you have two halves of the fish. Cut away the fins and you have four quarters of solid fish. Now see if the fat is very hot. Set it forward while you wipe your fish dry and dip each piece in milk, then in flour. Try if the fat is hot by dropping a crumb into it. If it browns at once, put in the fish. When they are beautifully browned, which will be in about 10 minutes, take them up in the colander and lay them on a towel to absorb any fat. Lay them on a
hot dish and garnish with slices of lemon, parsley, or celery tops. Now when this dish made its appearance, my friend's husband, a bon vivant, greeted it with, aha, filet de sol à la Delmonico, and as nothing to the contrary was said until dinner was over, he ate them under the impression that they were veritable filet de sol. Of course, I can't pretend to say whether Monsieur Delmonico imports his souls or uses the homely flounder, but I do know that one of his frequenters knew
no difference. Oysters should be laid on a cloth to drain thoroughly, then rolled in fine sifted cracker dust and dropped into very hot fat. Do not put more oysters in the pan than will fry without one overlapping the other. Very few minutes will brown them beautifully. If your fat was hot enough and has a minute too long toughens and shrinks them, be very careful that it browns a cube of bread almost directly before you begin the oysters. Egg and bread crumb may be used
instead of cracker dust, but it is not the proper thing and is a great deal more trouble. Should you be desirous of using it, however, the oysters must be carefully wiped dry before dipping them, while for cracker dust they're not wiped, but only drained well. Fish of any kind, fried and batter à la carême, is very easy to do and very nice. Carefully save veal, lamb, beef, and pork drippings.
a crock to put it in, and, clarified as I shall direct, it is much better than lard for many purposes, and for frying especially. It does not leave that dark look that is sometimes seen on articles fried in lard. The perfection of friture, or frying fat, according to Goff, is equal parts of lard and beef fat melted together.
Yet, there are families where dripping is never used, is looked upon as unfit to use, while the truth is that many persons quite unable to eat articles fried in lard would find no inconvenience from those fried in beef fat. It is as wholesome as butter, and far better for the purpose. Butter, indeed, is only good for frying such things as omelets or scrambled eggs,
things that are cooked in a very short time and require no great degree of heat. The same may be said of oil, than which, for fish, nothing can be better. Yet it can only be used once and is unsuitable for things requiring long, sustained heat as it soon gets bitter and rank. Do not be afraid to put a pound or two of fat in your pan for frying. It is quite as economical as to put less for it can be used over and over again,
a pail or crock being kept for the purpose of receiving it. Always in returning to the crock, pour it through a fine strainer so that no sediment or brown particles may pass which would spoil the next frying. To clarify dripping, when poured from the meat pan, it should go into a bowl instead of the crock in which you wish to keep it. Then pour into the bowl also some boiling water and add a little salt. Stir it and set it away.
Next day, or when cold, run a knife around the bowl and, unless it's pork, it will turn out in a solid cake, leaving the water and impurities at the bottom. Now scrape the bottom of your dripping and put it in more boiling water till it melts. Then stir again, another pinch of salt add, and let it cook again. When you take off the cake of fat, scrape it as before,
and it is ready to be melted into the general crock, and will now keep for months in cool weather. If you are having frequent joints, it is as well to do all your drippings together, once a week. But do not leave it long at any season with water under it, as it would taint it. Fat skim from boiled meat, pot de feu, before the vegetables, etc., go in,
is quite as good as that from roast, treated in the same way. Frying in batter is very easy and excellent for some things, such as warming over meat, being far better than eggs and crumbs. Carame gives the following recipe, which is excellent. Three quarters of a pound of sifted flour mixed with two ounces of butter melted in warm water.
Blow the butter off the water into the flour first, then enough of the water to make a soft paste, which beats smooth, then more warm water till it is batter thick enough to mask the back of a spoon dipped into it and salt to taste. Add the last thing, the whites of two eggs, well beaten.
Another batter, called à la Provençale, is exceedingly good, especially for articles a little dry in themselves, such as chickens to be warmed over, slices of cold veal, etc. Take some quantity of flour, two yolks of egg, four tablespoons full of oil, mix with cold water, and add whites of eggs and salt as before.
Into this batter, I sometimes put a little chopped parsley and the least bit of powdered thyme or grated lemon peel or nutmeg. This is, however, only a matter of taste. Broiling is the simplest of all forms of cooking and is essentially English. To broil well is very easy with little attention.
A brisk, clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with ease. Yet if, as sometimes happen, to meet the necessities of other cooking your fire is very large, carefully fix the gridiron on two bricks or in any convenient manner to prevent the meat scorching. Then have the gridiron very hot before putting your meat upon it. Turn it, if chop or steak, as soon as the gravy begins to start on the upper side.
If allowed to remain without turning long, the gravy forms a pool on the top, which, when turned, falls into the fire and is lost. The action of the heat, if turned quickly, seals the pores and the gravy remains in the meat. If the fire is not very clear, put a cover over the meat on the gridiron. It'll prevent it blackening or burning.
If the article is thick, I always do so, and it is an especially good plan with birds or chickens, which are apt to be raw at the joints unless this is done. Indeed, with the latter, I think it a good way to put them in a hot oven 10 minutes before they go on to broil, then have a spoonful of Maitre d'Hotel butter to lay on the breast of each. Young spring chickens are sometimes very dry,
in which case dip them in melted butter, or, better still, oil them all over a little while before cooking. There is nothing more unsightly than a sprawling dish of broiled chickens. Therefore, in preparing them, place them in good form, then, with a gentle blow of the rolling pin,
break the bones that they may remain so. End of chapter 7
