Chapter 23
23. Allahabad, Agra and Delhi, Part 2 On 19th January, I left the famous town of Agra in the company of Mr. Law in order to visit the still more celebrated city of Delhi, which is 122 miles from Agra. There is an excellent post road all the way. The country between Agra and Delhi continues tolerably unchanged. There is no elevation to be seen. Far and wide, cultivated land alternates with
heats and sandy moors, and the miserable villages or small towns which lie on the road excite no desire to delay the journey even for a moment. A long and handsome chain bridge crosses the Jamuna near the town of Ghassanjir. On 20th January, at 4 in the afternoon, we reached Delhi. Here I met with Dr. Sprenger, a very kind and amiable countryman. Dr. Sprenger, a Tyrolese, has won for himself by his remarkable abilities and knowledge a considerable reputation,
not only among the English, but throughout the whole learned world. He holds the position of Director of the College in this place, and but a short time since was requested by the English government to go to Lucknow for the purpose of examining the library of the Indian king of Lucknow to make known the valuable works and put the whole in order. He is a perfect master of the Sanskrit, the ancient and modern Persian, the Turkish, Arabic and
Hindustani languages, and translates the most difficult of them into English and German. He has already made the most valuable and interesting contributions to literature and will still continue to do so as he is an extremely active man and scarcely 34 years of age. Although he was on the eve of his departure for Lucknow, he was nevertheless kind enough to become my mentor. We commenced with the great imperial town of Delhi, the town to which formerly
the eyes not only of all India but almost of all Asia were directed. It was in its time to India what Athens was to Greece and Rome to Europe. It also shares their fate. Of all its greatness, only the name remains. The present Delhi is now called New Delhi. Although it is already 200 years old, it is a continuation of the old towns of which there are said to have been seven, each of which were called Delhi. As often as the palaces, fortifications,
mosques, etc. became dilapidated, they were left to fall into ruins and new ones were built near the old ones. In this way, ruins upon ruins accumulated, which are said to have occupied a space more than 6 miles in breadth and 18 in length. If a great part of them were not already covered with a thin layer of earth, these ruins would certainly extensive in the world. New Delhi lies upon the Jamuna. It contains, according to Bruckner,
a population of 500,000, but I was informed that there was really only 100,000, among which are 100 Europeans. Footnote 183. At the time of its greatest prosperity, it had 2 million inhabitants. End of footnote. The streets are broader and finer than any I had yet seen in any Indian town. The principal
street, Chandni Chonk, would do honor to an European city. It is nearly three-quarters of a mile long and about a hundred feet broad. A narrow canal, scant of water and half filled with rubbish runs through its entire length. The houses in the street are not remarkable either for magnitude or splendor. They are at most one story high and furnished below with miserable porches or arcades under which worthless goods are exposed for sale. I saw
nothing of the costly shops with the numerous precious stones glittering in the evening with the lamps and lights of which many travelers speak. The pretty houses and the rich shops must be sought for in the by-streets near the bazaar. The manufacturers, which I saw, consisted of gold and silver work, gold tissues and shawls. The natives execute the gold and silver wares so tastefully and artistically that finer cannot be found even in Paris.
The tissues woven in gold, the gold and silk embroideries and Kashmir shawls are of the highest degree of perfection. The finest Kashmir shawls cost here as much as 4000 rupees, 400 pounds. The dexterity of the workmen appears still more surprising after seeing the simple machines which they employ to produce their beautiful wares. It is extremely interesting to walk about the principal streets of Delhi in the evening. There may be seen at once
the modes of life of both the rich and the poor Indians. There is no town in which there are so many princes and nobles as in this. Besides the pension emperor and his relations, whose number amounts to several thousand, many other deposed and pensioned regents and ministers reside here. Their presence gives great animation to the town. They are fond of going out in public, frequently make greater or less parties and ride always on elephants either in the neighboring
gardens or in the evenings through the streets. In the day excursions, the elephants are decorated in the most costly manner with rugs and fine stuffs, gold lace and fringe. The seats called the haudas are even covered with Kashmir shawls. Richly fringed canopies keep off the heat of the sun or else servants hold enormous umbrellas for this purpose. The princes and nobles sit in these haudas to the number of two or four and are very gorgeously attired in oriental costumes.
These processions present a most beautiful appearance and are even larger and more splendid than those of the Raja of Benares which I have described. Each procession consists frequently of as many as a dozen or more elephants and 50 or 60 soldiers on foot and mounted and as many servants etc. In the evenings on the contrary they are not so pompous. One elephant together with a few servants suffices. They ride up and down the streets, coqueting with females of a certain class
who sit richly dressed and with unveiled faces at open windows or outside galleries. Others ride noble Arabian horses whose stately appearance is still more increased by gold embroidered trappings and brittles inlaid with silver. Between these riding parties heavily laden camels from far distant regions walk deliberately along. There are moreover not a few Baileys drawn by beautiful white oxen which the less wealthy people or the above mentioned women use. The Baileys as well
as the oxen are draped with scarlet cloths. The animals have their horns and the lower half of their feet painted brownish red and round their neck is a handsome collar on which bells are fastened. The most beautiful women peep modestly out of the half open Baileys. If it were not known to what class unveiled women belong in India it would be impossible to tell their position from their behavior. Unfortunately there are more of this class in India than in any other country.
The principal cause of this is an unnatural law, a revolting custom. The girls of every family are generally betrothed when they are only a few months old. If however the bridegroom dies immediately or at any time after their betrothal the girl is considered as a widow and as such cannot marry again. They then generally become dancers. The condition of widowhood is looked upon as a great misfortune as it is believed that only those women are placed in this position
who have deserved it in a previous state of existence. An Indian can only marry a girl belonging to his own caste. To the various objects of interest in the streets already noticed must be added the jugglers, mountebanks and serpent charmers who wander about everywhere and are always surrounded by a crowd of curious people. I saw several tricks performed by the jugglers which were truly astonishing. One poured out fire and smoke from his mouth then mixed white, red,
yellow and blue powders together, swallowed them and then immediately spit out each one separately and dry. Some turned their eyes downwards and when they again raised them the pupils appeared as if of gold. They then bowed the head forward and on again raising it the pupils of their eyes had the natural color and the teeth were gold. Others made a small opening in their skin and drew out of it yards of thread, silk cord and narrow ribbons. The serpent charmers held the animals by their tails
and allowed them to twine round their arms, neck and body. They took hold of large scorpions and let them run over their hands. I also saw several battles between large serpents and ignuons. These little animals rather larger than a weasel live as is known upon serpents and the eggs of crocodiles. They seize the former so dexterously by the neck that they always master them. The crocodile eggs they suck. At the end of the principal street stands the imperial palace
which is considered one of the finest buildings in Asia. It occupies together with its adjoining buildings an extent of more than two miles and is surrounded by a wall 40 feet high. At the principal entrance a fine perspective view is obtained through several successive gateways which is terminated in the background by a handsome hall. This hall is but small and is inlaid with white marble and rare stones. The roof is asked over with mica,
powdered over with small stars. Unfortunately these will soon lose all their glittering brilliancy as the greater portion of the mica has already fallen and the remainder is likely to follow. At the back of the hall is a door of gilt metal decorated with beautiful engraved work. In this hall the ex-monarch is accustomed to show himself to the people who from traditional respect or curiosity visit the palace. He also receives European visitors here. The handsomest parts of
the imperial palace are the universally admired and magnificent audience salon and the mosque. The former stands in the center of an open court. It is a long square building. The roof is supported by 30 columns and is open on all sides. Several steps lead up to it and a prettily decorated marble gallery two feet high surrounds it. The present great mogul has so little taste that he has had this divan divided into two parts by a very paltry partition wall. A similar wall
adjoins both sides of the salon. For what purpose I could not learn. In this divan is a great treasure, largest crystal in the world. It is a block of about four feet in length, two and a half broad and one foot thick. It is very transparent. Footnote 185. Some writers describe this colossal crystal as being 25 feet long. End of footnote. It was used by the emperors as a throne or seat in the divan. Now it is hidden
behind the blank wall. And if I had not known of its existence from books and been very curious to see it, it would not have been shown to me at all. The mosque is indeed small but like the judgment hall, it is of white marble and with fine columns and sculptures. Immediately adjoining the mosque is the garden Shalinar which is said to have been formerly one of the finest in India but has now quite fallen to decay. Heaps of dust and rubbish were laying in the courtyards.
The buildings were almost like ruins and miserable barracks stood against dilapidated walls. On account of the emperor's residence, it soon became necessary to build a new Delhi. On my entrance to the palace, I had observed a group of men collected together in the courtyard. An hour afterwards, when we were returning from our visit, they were still seated there. We drew near to discover what it was that so attracted their attention and saw a few dozen of tame birds seated upon perches,
quietly taking their food from the hands of attendants or else fighting for it. The lookers on were, as I was told, nearly all princes. Some were seated upon chairs, others stood around together with their followers. In their home dresses, the princes are hardly to be distinguished from their servants and in education and knowledge, they are certainly not much in advance of them. The emperor amuses himself with a diversion which is not more commendable. His troops consist of
boys about eight or fourteen. They wear a miserable uniform which in make and colour resembles the English. Their exercises are conducted partly by old officers and partly by boys. I pitied the young soldiers from my heart and wondered how it was possible for them to handle their heavy muskets and banners. The monarch generally sits for some hours every day in the small reception hall and amuses himself by watching the manoeuvres of his young warriors. This is the best time to get
presented to his majesty. He is eighty-five and at the time of my visit was so unwell that I had not the good fortune to see him. The emperor receives from the English government a yearly pension of fourteen lakhs. One million four hundred thousand rupees equals one hundred and forty thousand pounds. The revenues of his own possessions amount to half as much more but with all this, he is not so well off as a Raja of Benares. He has too large number of people to maintain. Of the
descendants of the imperial family alone more than three hundred as well as a hundred women and two thousand attendants. If to these are added the numerous elephants, camels, horses etc. it may be easily understood why his exchequer is always empty. He receives his pension on the first of every month. It has to be brought to him under the protection of the English military or it would otherwise be seized by his creditors. The emperor is said to be very discreet in raising his revenues
by various means. For example, he confers honorary posts and appoints officials for which he requires considerable sums of money and can it be believed he always finds fools enough to pay for such absurdities. Parents even buy appointments for their children. The present commander of the imperial troops is scarcely 10 years old. The most remarkable fact however is that the vizier who manages the emperor's income and expenditure not only receives no salary but pays the emperor
annually 10,000 rupees for this office. What sums must be embezzled to make up for this? The emperor issues a newspaper in his own palace which is in the highest degree absurd and laughable. It does not treat of politics or the occurrences of the day but exclusively of domestic incidents, conversation and relative affairs. It states for example that the sultan's wife A owed the laundress B three rupees and that the laundress came yesterday to ask for her money that the lady
had sent to her imperial husband to ask for the sum. The emperor referred her to the treasurer who assured her that as it was near the end of the month he could not command a penny. The laundress was therefore put off until the next month or the prince C visited at such an hour the prince D or F. He was received in such a room, stayed so long. The conversation was on this or that subject etc. Among the other palaces of the town that in which the college is located is one
of the handsomest. It is built in the Italian style and is truly majestic. The columns are of uncommon height. The stairs, saloons and rooms are very spacious and lofty. A fine garden surrounds the back of the palace, a large courtyard the front and a high fortified wall encloses the hole. Dr. Sprenger as director of the college occupies a truly princely dwelling in it. The palace of the princess Begum half in the Italian and half in the Mongolian style is
tolerably large and is remarkable for its extremely handsome saloons. A pretty and hitherto well-kept garden surrounds it on all sides. The princess Begum attracted great attention at the time before Delhi was under the English dominion by her intelligence, enterprise and bravery. She was a Hindu by birth and became acquainted in her youth with a German named Somber with whom she fell in love and turned Christian in order to marry him. Mr. Somber formed a regiment of native
troops which after they were well trained he offered to the emperor. In the course of time he so ingratiated himself with the emperor that the latter presented him with a large property and made him a prince. His wife is said to have supported him energetically in everything. After his death she was appointed commander of the regiment which post she held most honorably for several years. She died a short time since at the age of 80. Of the numerous mosques of New Delhi
I visited only two the mosque Roshun Adh Daula and the Jamuna mosque. The former stands in the principal street and its pinnacles and domes are splendidly gilt. It is made famous through its connection with an act of cruelty on the part of Sheikh Nadir. This remarkable but fearfully cruel monarch on conquering Delhi in the year 1739 had hundred thousand of the inhabitants cut to pieces and is said to have sat upon a tower of this mosque to watch the scene. The town was then set
fire to and plundered. The Jamuna mosque built by Sheikh Jihan is also considered a masterpiece of Mohammedan architecture. It stands upon an enormous platform to which 40 steps lead up and rises in a truly majestic manner above the surrounding mass of houses. Its symmetry is astonishing. The three domes and the small cupolas on the minarets are of white marble. All the other parts even the large slates with which the fine courtyard is paved are of red sandstone. The inlaid ornamental work
and stripes on the mosque are also of white marble. There are great numbers of caravan saris frequently with very handsome portals. The baths are unimportant. We devoted two days to making an excursion to the more distant monuments of Delhi. We first stopped at the still well preserved Purana Kail. All the handsome mosques resemble each other much. This one however is distinguished by its decoration, the richness and correctness of its sculptures, its beautiful inlaid work and its
size. Three lightly arched and lofty cupolas cover the principal building. Small towers adorn the corners and two high minarets stand at the sides. The entrance and the interior of the domes are inlaid with glazed tiles and painted. The colors are remarkably brilliant. The interior of every mosque is empty. A small tribune for speakers and a few glass lusters and lamps constitute the whole decoration. The mausoleum of the emperor Humayun, very much in the same style as the mosque, was
commenced by this monarch himself. But as he died before it was completed, his son Akbar carried out his intentions. The high arched temple in the center of which stands the sacro figures is inlaid with mosaic work of rare stones. Instead of window panes, the openings are furnished with artistically worked stone lattices. In adjoining halls under plain sacro figae rests the remains of several wives and children of the emperor Humayun. Not far from this is the monument of Nizam-ul-Din,
a very sacred and greatly venerated Mohammedan. It stands in a small court, the floor of which is paved with marble. A square screen of marble with four small doors surrounds the sacro figas. The screen is still more delicate and finely worked than that in the Taj Mahal. It is scarcely conceivable how it was possible to execute such work in stone. The doors, pillars and elegant arches are covered with the most chaste reliefs, as fine and perfect as any that have seen in the
most artistic towns of Italy. The marble used for them is of remarkable whiteness and purity, worthy indeed of these great works of art. Adjoining in this are several pretty monuments, all of white marble. They are passed by with some indifference when the most perfect of them all has been seen first. A great deal has been said about a large water basin, which is surrounded on three sides by cells already much dilapidated. The fourth side is open
and from it a beautiful stone staircase 40 feet broad leads to the water basin, which is 25 feet deep. Every pilgrim would consider his pilgrimage of no account if he did not step in here immediately on his arrival. Divers plunge from the terraces of the cells to the bottom of the basin and fetch out the smallest pieces of money which have been thrown in. Some are dexterous enough to catch the coin even before it touches the bottom. We threw in several coins which they
succeeded in bringing up every time, but I can scarcely believe that they caught them before they reached the bottom. They remained long enough underwater each time, not only to pick the coin up but also to look for it. The feat was certainly surprising but not as some travelers affirm, so remarkable that some Miller ones might not be seen elsewhere. Our last visit on this day was to the beautiful monument of the vizier
Sovdar Chang which is also a mosque. In this monument I was especially struck by the inlaid work of white marble and red sandstone upon the four minarets. It was so diversified and so delicate, so chastely executed that the most expert draughtsmen could not have produced it more correctly and delicately upon paper. The same may be said of the Sacrofigae in the principal temple which is hewn out of a block of fine white marble. The monument is surrounded by a tolerably well
kept garden laid out in the European style. At the end of the garden, opposite the mausoleum, stands a small palace principally belonging to the king of Lucknow. It is at present kept in good condition by the few European inhabitants of New Delhi. It contains a few articles of furniture and serves for the accommodation of visitors to these ruins. We remained here overnight and thanks to the good-hearted and amiable Mrs. Sprenger found every possible convenience we could desire.
The first and most agreeable thing after our long wandering was a well furnished table. Such attentions are doubly deserving of thanks when it is remembered at what a great amount of trouble they have procured. It is necessary on such excursions to take not only provisions and a cook, but also cooking utensils, table services, bed linen and servants. Enough in short for a small establishment. The train of baggage which is always sent on before on these occasions resembles
a small emigration party. On the following morning we went on to the Qutb Minar, one of the oldest and most beautiful buildings of the Pattanars from which people, the Afghans, derive their origin. The most wonderful part of this monument is the so-called Giants Column, a polygon with 27 sites or half round corners and five stories or galleries whose diameter at the basement is 54 feet and whose height is 26 feet. A winding staircase of 386 steps leads to the top. This building is
said to belong to the 13th century and to have been built by Kotab Udun. The column is of red sandstone and only the exterior is of white marble. Decorations and wonderful sculptures are wound in broad stripes around the column. These are so finely and neatly chiseled as to resemble an elegant lace pattern. Any description of the delicacy and effect of this work would be far exceeded by the reality. The column is fortunately as well preserved as if it had only been standing
about a hundred years. The upper part leans a little forwards, while the artificially as in the tower at Bologna is not decided. Its top is flat like a terrace which does not correspond with the remainder of the architecture. It is not known whether anything formerly stood upon it. The column was in its present condition when the English conquered Delhi. We mounted as far as the highest point and the most charming view of the whole remains of Delhi, the Jamuna and the unbounded
plane opened itself here before us. The history of the people who once ruled Hindustan may here be studied in the ruins of imperial towns lying one close beside the other. It was a great and imposing prospect. Many places where magnificent palaces and monuments formerly stood are now cultivated fields. Wherever the ground is broken up, fragments of ruins show themselves. Opposite the tower or column of Qutb Minar stands a similar unfinished building, the base of which
is considerably larger in circumference than that of the finished one. It is supposed that these two towers belonged to a magnificent mosque, of which some courts, gateways, columns and walls still remain. Footnote 190. If these two towers did belong to a mosque, why were they built of such different sizes? End of footnote. These few remains of the mosque are remarkable for the perfect sculptures which covered the walls, gateways etc. both outside and inside. The entrance gateway has
a considerable height. The columns in the courts are of Buddhist origin. The bell with long chain is sculptured on them in relief. In the forecourt of the mosque stands a metal column similar to that at Allahabad, except that there is no lion upon its summit and its height is not more than 36 feet. It is defaced by several marks and slight injuries which are ascribed to the Mongolians who, when they conquered Delhi, attempted in their destructive rage to pull down these columns.
But they stood too firmly and all their exertions were insufficient to destroy any of the on them. The remaining pathan or Afghan temples and monuments which lie dispersed among the other ruins resemble each other as much as they differ from the Mohammedan and Hindu buildings. The monuments of this kind generally consist of a small round temple with a not very high cupola, surrounded by open arcades supported on pillars. Here also, in the neighborhood of Qutb Minar,
a hospitable dwelling is to be found. A ruined building is fitted up and three of the rooms are furnished. On the way homewards, we visited the observatory of the famous astronomer, De Sing. If that at Banaras has been seen, this may well be passed by. Both were built by the same architect and in the same style, but that at Banaras is well preserved while the one here is already much dilapidated. Some travelers consider this memorial as one of the most wonderful works
of Indian art. Near the observatory stands the old madrassa, schoolhouse, a large building with numerous rooms for teachers and pupils and with open galleries and halls in which the teachers sat surrounded by groups of youths. The building is rather neglected but is partly inhabited by private persons. Adjoining the madrassa stands a pretty mosque and a very handsome monument, both of white marble. The latter was erected by Aurangzeb in memory of his vizier Ghasi Aldin
Chan, the founder of the madrassa. It is as perfect in its execution as that of the saint Nizamuddin and appears to have been erected by the same artist. The palace of Feroz Shah is near New Delhi. It is indeed somewhat in ruins, but there is much to be seen in the existing remains of the building. The forecourt of the mosque was a short time since cleared with great labor of the rubbish and masses of stone which covered it by the untiring zeal of Mr. Cobb, the esteemed editor
of the English Delhi News. It is in very good preservation. In this palace stands the third metal column, Feroz Shah's Lath. The inscriptions upon it show that it existed a hundred years before the birth of Christ and may therefore be considered as one of the oldest monuments of India. It was brought here from Lahore at the time this palace was built. The Purana Kila or the old fortress of the palace of Babur is much decayed. From the height and style of the remaining fragments
of gateways and walls, an idea may be formed of the magnitude of the palace. The ruins of Loglukabad are in an advanced state of dilapidation and do not repay the trouble of a journey of seven miles. The other numerous ruins are little more than mere repetitions of those already described, with which, however, they cannot be compared in size, elegance and beauty. They may be of great interest to antiquarians and historians, but by myself, I candidly admit they were not
much valued. I must not neglect to mention the English military station which is situated upon some low hills near New Delhi. The peculiar formation of the ground renders a journey there extremely interesting. A district of enormous blocks of red sandstone between which beautiful flowers were growing. There are numerous ruins here, much the same as in Delhi.
