Chapter 24
Section 24 of A Woman's Journey Round the World All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. A Woman's Journey Round the World by Ida Laura Pfeiffer Chapter 14
Journey from Delhi to Bombay Part 1 The Thugs or Stranglers Departure Cattle Market Bharatpur Bihana Wells and Ponds Good Nature of the Indians Poppy Plantations
The Satis Notara Kota Descriptions of the Town The Royal Palace of Armour Nevas Amusements and Dances The Holy Village of Keshwaripatam In order to reach Bombay, I had two routes before me.
The one leads past Shimla to the foot of the Himalayas, the other to the famous rock temples of Ajanta and Ellora. I would gladly have chosen the former and penetrated as far as the principal chain of the Himalayas, Lahore and the Indus. But my friends advised me not to make the attempt, for the simple reason that these
mountains are covered with deep snow, in which case I must have postponed my journey for at least three months. As I was unable to wait so long, I decided upon taking the latter road. In Kolkata, I had been recommended not to continue my journey beyond Delhi at all. They said the country was not under the control of the English government, and the people
were far less civilized. People endeavored more specially to excite my apprehension by terrible accounts of the thugs or stranglers. These thugs form a singular sect, whose object is robbery and murder, and who, like the Italian bandit, are prepared to undertake any atrocity for which they are paid.
They must not, however, in any case shed blood, and dare only make away with their victim by strangling. That act is not considered as very criminal, and the murderer absolves himself by a small present which he gives to his priest. But if he sheds one drop of blood, he falls into the deepest disgrace, is expelled from
his caste, and abandoned even by his own associates. Many travelers affirm that thugs are a religious sect, and that they do not murder for the sake of planter or revenge, but in order, according to their belief, to ensure a meritorious action. I made many inquiries about this, and learned that from everyone, that it was no religious
compulsion, but hatred, revenge, or desire of gain, which led to these acts. These stranglers are represented as possessing a most extraordinary dexterity in their abominable United with the most untiring patience and perseverance. They frequently follow the victims they've selected for months, and strangle them either while sleeping, or by stealing behind them and throwing a twisted cloth or a cord around
their necks, which they draw tight with such rapidity and force that death ensures instantaneously. In Delhi, I gained more information. I was assured that all these dangers were exaggerated, that travelers were very rarely attacked in India, and that the thugs were reduced in numbers. Moreover, they did not make any attempt on Europeans, as the English government instituted
the strictest search of the culprits. With regard therefore to the danger, I was tolerably at ease, but I had still to anticipate privation and fatigue. The first part of the journey was to Kota, distant 290 miles. I had the choice of three modes of conveyance, palanquins, camels, or oxen ballets.
None of them are expeditious. There are no high roads and no organized accommodation for traveling. You must retain the same men and animals to the end of the journey, and, at the utmost, cannot go more than from 20 to 22 miles in one day. For a palanquin, it is necessary to engage eight barers, beside several for the luggage.
Although each does not receive more than 8 rupees a month, out of which he pays his own expenses, still the expense is heavy. For so many are required, and their return journey must be paid for. Traveling on camels is also expensive and is the most inconvenient. I decided therefore on adopting the less costly mode of conveyance by oxen.
As I traveled alone, Dr. Springer very kindly made all the necessary preparations. He drew a written contract with a chandri, a waggoner, an Hindustani to the effect that I was to pay him the aft of the fare, 15 rupees, Pound 1, 10 shillings, immediately, and the other aft when he arrived at Kota, to which place he must bring me in 14 days. For every day over the time, I had the right to deduct 3 rupees, 6 shillings.
Dr. Springer also sent one of his most trusty chappasses to accompany me, and his good wife furnished me with an excellent warm wrapper and every kind of provision so that my waggon could not hardly hold all that I had. With sorrowful heart, I parted from my good country people. God grant me that I may see them yet again during my life.
On the morning of 30th January, 1848, I left Delhi. The first day, we made very little progress, only 18 miles, which brought us to Faridabad. The heavy, awkward animals required to be first used to the draught. The first 12 miles of the journey afforded me some gratification, as along both sides of the road lay innumerable ruins, which I had visited with my friends only a few days
previously. This, as well as the following nights, were passed in caravanseries. I had no tent, no palanquins, and on this road there were no bungalows. Unfortunately, the caravanseries in the smaller villages are not to be compared with those in the larger towns.
The cells are rudely constructed of clay, their length is scarcely 7 feet, and the small opening, only 4 feet high, is without a door, but to my astonishment, I found them always very cleanly swept, and I was also furnished with a low wooden stool, covered with a net work, upon which I threw my wrapper, and which served me for an excellent couch. The cheprasi laid himself, like the Napoleon's Memeduk, before the entrance of my cell, but
he slept much more soundly, for even on the first night, he did not hear the least of encounter, which I had with an enormous dog that had been attracted by my well-filled provision basket. 31st January. Towards noon, we passed the little town of Balmangalam, in which there was a small English
military station, a mosque, and a very recently erected Hindu temple. We passed the night and the little town of Palwal. In this neighbourhood, the peacocks are very tame. Every morning I saw dozens of these beautiful birds on the trees. They come into the fields, and even into the towns, to fetch from the good-natured
natives. 1st February. Our night station on this day was the small town of Kosi. We had already been overtaken during the last mile by a number of natives, who were busily hurrying into the town, in and outside of which a considerable cattle market was being
held. This market presented a picture of the greatest confusion. The animals stood on all the sides between the multitude of trusses of hay and straw, the sellers crying and praising their wares without cessation, and leading the buyers here and there, partly by persuasion and partly by force, who also made no less noise than
the former. I was most struck by the innumerable cobblers, who set up their simple working implements between the piled-up bundles of hay and straw, consisting of small tables with thread, wire, and leather, and who were busily engaged at their trade, repairing the coverings for the feet.
I remarked at this time, as well as on several other occasions, that the natives are by no means indolents, as they generally represented to be, but on the contrary, that they availed themselves of every favorable opportunity of earning money. All the caravan stories at the entrance of the town were crowded, and there was no alternative except to pass through the whole town to the other side.
The town's gate had a very promising appearance, rising proudly and boldly into the air. I hoped to see corresponding buildings, and saw instead breached mud howls and narrow lanes, so narrow indeed, that the foot-passengers were obliged to step under the entrance of their huts to allow our bady to pass them. 2nd February A few miles distance of Mathura, we turned
out of the beaten road which leads from Delhi to Mathura, a town which still remains under English government. Mathura is a pretty little town, with a very neat mosque, broad streets and walled houses, many of which are decorated with galleries, columns or sculptures of red standstone. The appearance of the country here is monotonous uniformity, bound as plains on which orchids
and meadows alternately present themselves. The latter apparently quite scorched in the consequence of the dry season. The corn is already a foot high, but such large quantities of yellow flowers were mixed with it, that there was great difficulty in telling whether the corn or wheat had been sown.
The cultivation of cotton is of very great importance here. The Indian plant does not indeed attain the height and thickness of the Egyptians, however it is considered that the quality of cotton does not depend upon the size of the plants, and that the cotton of this country is the finest and the best. I observed upon these plains, little houses here and there, built upon artificially raised
of clay, of form 6 to 8 feet high. There are no steps leading to the tops of the mounds, the only means of access being by ladders which can be drawn up at night. From what I draw from the explanation of my servants, which however I only partially understood, they are used by families who live in retired places for security against tigers, which
are here very frequently seen. 3 February, Bharatpur. We passed a place which was overgrown, in broad patches, with mishap and stunted bushes. A rare occurrence in this part of the country where wood is scarce, my driver bestowed upon the tangled brushwood, the high sounding name of jungle.
I should rather have compared them with the dwarf bushes and shrubs of Iceland. The country beyond this woody district had a very remarkable appearance. The ground was in many places torn and fissured, as is the consequence of an earthquake. In the caravanessary at Bharatpur, there were a great number of natives, soldiers and particularly some very rough looking men, of whom I felt inclined to be afraid.
I was no longer in English territories and alone among all these people. However, they behaved themselves with great civility and greeted me in the evening and morning with a right hearty salam. I think that a similar set of men in our own country would scarcely have shown me the same respect. 4 February, On the other side of the town, I saw two fine
monuments before the door. Round temples with lofty copolas and carved stone latticework in the window openings. The fields and meadows were richly strewn with Indian victories, a thing which I have scarcely met with anywhere else, except in Syria and Sicily. To the right of the road was a low rocky peak, whose highest point was crowned by a fortress.
The dwelling houses of the commanders, instead of being sheltered by walls, rose high up above them and were tastily surrounded by verandas. On the terrace of the principal building was a handsome pavilion, supported upon pillars. The outer walls of the fortress extended down into the valley below. We had proceeded about fourteen miles when we came upon some monuments which had very
unique appearance. On a small spot, shaded by beautiful trees, was a round wall formed by a number of flagstones of seven feet high and four feet wide. In the middle stood three monuments of circular form, built of large square stones. The diameter of their tower part was about twelve feet, their height about six, they
had no entrance. I also saw a new species of bird today. It was very similar in size and form to the flamingo, with a beautiful penny in feathers. Its plumage was tinged with rich, whitish grey shade, the head was covered with deep red feathers.
We rested this night at the somewhat large town of Hindon. The only object which attracted my notice here was its palace, with such small windows, that they seemed more fitted for dolls than for men. As I was about to leave the caravansary this morning, three armed men placed themselves before my wagon and in spite of the exclamations of my people, prevented our starting.
At last, I succeeded in understanding that the dispute was about a few pence for having kept watch before the door of my sleeping wagon during the night, which my people would not pay. The caravansary did not appear to the chepras very safe and he had requested a guard in the evening from the Sardar magistrate.
The people might have slept quite soundly in some corner of the courtyard and perhaps have dreamt of watching. For although I looked out several times during the night, there was not one of them to be seen. However, what can one expect for a few pence?
I satisfied them with a small present, upon which they made a regular military movement and allowed us to proceed. If I had been inclined to be timid, I must have been in continual anxiety for several days from the appearance of the natives. All of the men were armed with sabres, bows and arrows, matchlocks, formidable cleps,
born with iron, and even shields of iron plate. These arms were also carried by the cattle tenders in the field, but nothing disturbed the equanimity or the ignorant of the language and with only the old chepras with me. I always felt as though my last hours were not yet come. Nevertheless, I was glad that we had passed by a clear daylight, the dangerous ravines
and deep gorges, through which our road lay for several miles. From these were entered a large valley, at the entrance of which was an isolated mountain surmounted by a fortress. Four miles further on, we came to a small group of trees, in the middle of which was a stone terrace, five feet in height, upon which was a life-size statue of a horse carved
in stone. By the side of this well was a dugout, a kind of cistern, built of large blocks of sandstone, with steps leading up to the water. Similar wells and cisterns, some of which are much larger, screened by a beautiful mango and tamarind trees, are frequently met within India, especially in districts where, as in
the present one, goods brings us cares. The Hindus and the Mohammedians have a good belief that by the erection of works of general benefit, they may more easily attain future happiness. When such water reservoirs and groups of trees have been founded by Hindus, several sculpted figures of their deities or red-painted stones are commonly found to be placed on them.
At many of the wells and cisterns also, a man is placed, whose business is to draw water for the weary travellers. However, agreeable erection of these reservoirs may be in many respects, there is one circumstance which detracts from their value. The people always wash and bathe in the same ones from which they must procure their drinking
water. But what objections will not thirst silence? I felt my jug as well as the others. 7th February Dunjar Kamalumma is a small village at the foot of a low mountain.
A short distance from the station lay a true Arabian sand desert, but which was fortunately not of very great extent. The sand plains of India are generally capable of being cultivated, as it is only necessary to dig a few feet deep to reach water, with which to irrigate the fields. Found in this little desert where a few fine-looking wheat fields, this evening I thought I should
have been obliged to make use of my pistols. My wagoner always wanted everyone to give him the road. If they did not do so, he abused them. Today we came upon half a dozen armed traveller vaginas, who took no notice of the calls of my driver, upon which he was enriched and threatened to strike them with this whip.
If it had come to blows, we should, no doubt, in spite of my aid, have come off of the worst. But they contented themselves with mutual abuse and threats, and the fellows got out of the way. I have everywhere remarked that the Indians jangle and threaten a great deal, but that they never go beyond that.
I have lived a great deal among the people and observed them, and have often seen anger and quarrelling, but never fighting. Indeed, when their anger lasts long, they sit down together. The children never wrestle or pull each other aboard, either in sport or earnest. I only once saw two boys enraged and earn a squirrel, when one of them so far forgot
himself as to give other a box on the ear, but he did this as carefully as if he received the blow himself. The boy who was struck drew a sleeve over his cheek, and the quarrel was ended. Some of the children who looked on from the distance, but took no part in it. This good nature may partly depend upon the fact that the people eat so little flesh,
and according to their religion, are so extremely kind to all animals. But I think still that there is some cowardice at the bottom of it. I was told that the Hindu would scarcely be persuaded to enter a dark room without a light, if a horse or ox makes the slightest start, both great and small, and frightened and shrieking away.
On the other side, again, I heard from the English officers that the same boys were very brave soldiers. Does this courage come from the court, or from the example of the English? During the last day, I saw a great many poppy plantations. They present a remarkable appearance.
The leaves are fatty and shining, the flowers large and variegated. The extraction of opium is performed in a very simple, but exceedingly tedious manner. The yet unripe poppy seeds are cut in several places in the evening. A white tenacious juice flows out of these incisions, which quickly thickens by the exposure to the air, and remains hanging in small tiers.
These tiers are scrapped off with a knife in the morning, and poured into vessels which have the form of a small cake. The second inferior quantity is obtained by pressing and boiling the poppy heads and stems. In many books, and for instance, in Zimmerman's Pocket Book of Travels, I read under this head that the poppy plants reached a height of 40 feet in India and Persia, and that the
capsules were as large as a child's head, and held nearly a quart of seeds. This is not correct. I saw the finest plantations in India and afterwards also in Persia, but found that the plants were never more than three, and at the most four feet high, and the capsules about as large as a small hen's egg.
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